Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in Isle Of Skye.

There are so many benefits that comes with building a porch in your home premises. It’s an extra space where a lot can be achieved such as drying a dripping wet dog, taking off your dirty shoes or boot and lots more. So if you’re considering to construct a porch, it’s definitely going to be a wise decision. However, before you get started, there’s a need to determine if you’ll need planning permission for a porch. It’s important to take note that planning laws are dynamic and can be updated at any point, so be sure only to use trusted sources only as your guide. If you’re the homeowner or landlord, it’s entirely your responsibility to obtain the right approval for any development project you wish to carry out within your premises.

A Porch can not be termed as an extension and neither is it a conservatory, they’re basically built to the home’s front covering the main entrance using a stone base or a brick. As a result, a porch does not need planning permission due to the fact that it’s covered by the permitted development rights if the specific guidelines for porches are complied with. Below are the instances where you WILL need planning permission for a porch.

✓ If the floor space is more than 3sqm (the wall inclusive).

✓ The highest point has a height of more than 3 metres.

✓ If the porch is situated within 2 metres of a boundary directly facing on to the road.

You may need planning permission if the house is a listed building, designated area or falls under an Article 4 Direction.

In order to build a porch without planning permission, you need to consider all the criteria stated above. You can also visit the Planning Portal website to get more detailed information before getting started.

The cheapest fence to install is, generally, a pressure-treated pine wooden fence at around £20 per linear foot. This includes the materials and labour costs. Wire fencing is technically cheaper at around £5 per foot, but it’s not a great material to use in homes as it looks unsightly and doesn’t provide any privacy.

Yes, it is possible to insulate a shed. You might want to do this if you’re planning on working in it during the winter. A professional will be able to help you find an insulated shed or advise you on how to insulate a shed that you already have. Always seek professional advise first before attempting to do this yourself!

From gravel and crushed stones to asphalt and tarmac, the choice when it comes to surfacing options for driveways is truly staggering. However, what’s not too clear is the options that best suits a sloping driveway. If you also possess a sloping driveway and wondering the best material to install, you’re definitely not alone. This is a major source of concern for several home and property owners in the UK being fully aware that making the wrong choice here can prove really costly and disastrous. In order to help you make the best informed decision possible, we’ve put together this post which takes a look at the various driveway material options available to you.

• Gravel
  This driveway surfacing option provides a truly enjoyable “crunch sound when driven on, however, the satisfaction will be short lived if installed on a sloped driveway. If installed on a sloped driveway, there’s going to be a continual displacement as instinctively rolls downhill on an incline.

• Concrete
  This can prove to be a great problem if installed on an incline. This is due to the fact that concrete is subject to freeze/thaw phenomenon which makes it steep and slippery lacking the needed traction.

• Tarmac
  This is particularly far from ideal when it comes to a steep driveway surface. This is because it requires continuous maintenance to prevent spillages from spoiling the surface.

• Resin
  The best surface for a steep driveway is simply that made from resin. This is due to the fact that this surfacing option allows water to soak away naturally. They’re perfectly permeable, preventing water from pooling and reducing the risk of falls.

How To Plasterboard A Wall

If you’re looking to plasterboard your wall, one of the essential things to have in mind is that the plasterboard must be hung horizontally and not vertically. Due to the way they’re manufactured, plasterboard sheets normally possess a “grain along the length. This implies that, it’s only when they’re firmly placed perpendicular against the wall that they’re able to achieve their maximum strength. Materials you’ll need to complete this task includes: Tape measure, stanley knife, pencil, spirit level, drill driver or screw gun, surform, drywall screws and handsaw. Now let’s have a look at the wall plasterboarding steps!

• To plasterboard a wall the first step to take is to place each board in such a way to make the edges the centre of the noggins and upright. Also, the the adjoining walls and door openings should fit closely to the edges.

• Work from the door opening to the ending wall. From the the stud’s edge to the noggin’s centre, use your tape measure to measure a cut board and as a rule to mark up.

• Place your spirit level on the marks and use the Stanley knife to run a line along the intended cut. Once done, turn the board on its edge and give a sharp push on the back to split.

• Cut the paper left with the knife after folding the split edge back on itself. This way, you should get a nice and clean edge.

• In its right position, place the board up against the studwork. Install the screws on the board’s edges where a noggin or upright can be seen.

• Mark lines down across the board at the stud’s centre.

• Cut the end boards to length.

• Install the remaining boards as mentioned above. While doing this, make sure the factory edges are together.

• Cut any board extending into an opening and finish the edges using a surform.

We’d recommend you hire the professional services of a plasterer for the best results especially if you lack the necessary training or experience. Plasterboarding a wall can be a tricky challenge and you’d save yourself some time, money and effort by getting it right on the first trial.

If you’re looking to have your boiler insured, there are a number of boiler cover providers you should probably check out with British Gas Homecare being right up there as one of the best in the business. In this post, we’re going to consider the British Gas Homecare prices to help you make the best-informed decisions possible moving forward. Let’s take a look!

Firstly, British Gas offers a wide variety of packages to provide coverage for repairs as well as breakdowns on heating systems. They also offer plans which includes cover for your central heating, plumbing, drains as well as electrics. With this provider, you can choose to pay your cover either in monthly instalments or annually. Simply have it at the back of your mind that the cost of your package will depend mainly on the things you want to cover – the more the risk you wish to protect against, the more expensive your package is likely to be.

In general, HomeCare starts from £13 a month (£60 excess). Conditions and exclusions is applicable, prices may also vary based on your property’s postcode. With British Gas, there are a number of products to select from within their range some of which features an annual service and repair of your boiler and controls. Their products include British Gas Home Care One, British Gas Home Care Two, British Gas HomeCare Three and British Gas HomeCare Four. There are also some exclusions, which means that irrespective of the HomeCare product you opt for, there are certain things that British Gas do not cover. For instance, sludge or scale removal and the repair of the damage arising as a result. Showers and their parts, shared drains, faults caused by a non-British Gas engineer and more.

Overall, the amount you pay per month or year will be based on your location in the UK and the British Gas will confirm the price once they’ve been able to take a couple of details from you.

Once a tile is glued to a wall, it’s meant to stay there permanently. As a result, if you later decide to remove the wall tile, this process often involves destruction of the tile. However, if you only wish to have a portion of the tile removed, there’s a technique you can incorporate to achieve this goal. Using an angle grinder or rotary tool to cut through the tile enables you to detach the unwanted tile portion from the wanted portion. In other words, you can remove only a section of the tile, while leaving the rest intact and undamaged. So, how do you cut tile on wall? In this post, you’ll discover all you need to cut tile on your wall successfully. Let’s take a look!

• Protect the area. Do this by using plastic sheet taped firmly into place with masking tape to cover doors leading to other areas of the house to prevent dust coming from the cutting process from getting everywhere in the house. You can also cover the vents while also opening the windows to provide ventilation.
• Make a mark on the cutline you’ll be making using a grease pencil. Then, place masking tape on the tile running along the edge of the marked line.
• Use a handheld sprayer filled with water to spray the tile surface so as to prevent the dust generated from the cut to spread while also provide lubrication for the cutting blade.
• Use an angle grinder to cut through the tile.
• Use a small pry bar positioned in the joints to pry cut pieces from the surface.
• Remove the dust created using a vacuum and wash the surface with a water dampened rag.

This will depend on the size of the garden and the amount of plants within it. For small gardens, fortnightly or monthly visits by a professional gardener will generally be sufficient. For larger gardens or gardens with a lot of plants, weekly visits are best. Some larger projects such as hedge cutting or tree felling may need additional one off visits.