Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in Hinckley.

The importance of underpinning a house cannot be overemphasized. Firstly, what is underpinning? Well, underpinning is simply the act of reinforcing, repairing, strengthening or improving the depth of an existing foundation by lowering the footing to ensure that it rests more on more reliable and supportive soil. Not only does this method help to strengthen your building and preserve its structural integrity, but it also does increase your property’s value and gives you peace of mind knowing your property is safe. If you’re thinking about underpinning your house, you have two options – do it yourself or call in a reputable structural engineer. The latter is more advisable as the method involves a lot of specialized knowledge, skills and tools to guarantee a successful outcome. In this post, we’re going to take you through the process involved in underpinning a house. Let’s take a look!

To get started, you should know that concrete underpinning features excavating pier footings around the building at about 2 to 3 metres distance between each other. In some cases, underpins can be installed from within the house. The footings of the underpin should go very deep into the underlying soil in such a way that fully supports the weight of the building or structure. Once done, now proceed to attaching the new footing to the building. You can achieve this by excavating underneath the existing footing to make for a stronger prop. Individual prop and pier arrangement is then strengthened using strong steel bars. Once completed, the concrete is then poured.

A professional underpinning contractor will make sure there’s sufficient space left between the existing footings and the new underpins as this space will ensure that the new underpins can be easily used to jack up the house and level it once the poured concrete cures.

It depends on the size and type of extension. Small porches or flat roof extensions are very reasonably priced. More substantial two storey extensions can be expensive. In general, the price is roughly proportional to the amount of space you add to your home.

For 2 metre solid fences it’s recommended to use concrete posts to support each panel. For smaller 1 metre fences or for picket fences with gaps between each timber piece you can use timber posts. A fencing contractor will be able to advise you on the best materials from the length and requirements of a new fence.

A boiler is simply the most important part of a central heating system as it generates the heat that warms up the home or property. Basically, the appliance or small furnace makes use of gas, LPG or oil in order to fuel its operation. However in the UK, most boilers are usually fuelled by natural gas which is supplied automatically from the national gas grid. And depending on how it operates, there are various types of boilers.

Typically, a gas central heating boiler will have multiple pipes entering from underneath. While one pipe supplies the boiler with gas from the mains gas supply, another pipe allows cold water to enter the boiler to be heated, the last pipe then enables hot water to exit the boiler so it can be distributed around the home.

✓ There are fuel jets and heat exchangers inside the boiler. When the heating is turned on, a valve is opened to allow the mains supply gas to enter a sealed combustion chamber in the boiler. There are multiple little valves which permit the entry of the gas before being ignited by an electric ignition switch. These jets heat a metal component in the boiler known as a heat exchanger which works to transfer the heat to the cold water pipe and heat up the water.

✓ Once the water has been heated to the target temperature, it’s then pumped through a circuit of pipe which runs around your home by an electric pump.

✓ The heated water enter each radiator, is then transmitted via a closed loop and radiates heat into each room.

✓ Once done travelling through all radiators, the water then returns to the boiler at which it must have been cooled. Therefore, the boiler will have to reheat following the same process before circulating. The water can only be drained by a professional Gas Safe engineer

How To Prepare Exterior Walls For Painting?

For a great and smooth exterior finish, preparing the walls before painting is crucial. A great painting job melts the heart and even more so if its done by you. This is a relatively easy task that can be completed without much hassle by an expert DIYer. However if you lack the needed confidence to pull off your exterior wall painting preparation task, then hiring the services of a reliable professional who can guarantee the best result would be your best bet. In this step by step, we aim to take you through the steps involved in preparing exterior walls for painting.

Before you get started, you need to make sure you have the necessary tools in place. These includes a filler and filling knife, sandpaper, soap, sponge, wide paint brush, masking tape as well as drop sheets.

✓ Ensure a smooth surface with a filer and sanding. This includes removing and replacing any rotten or decaying timer, proper sanding as needed, scraping off of peeling areas with sanding and filling of cracking areas with the help of exterior grade filler. Once the above is completed, you can then proceed to filling any holes or cracks in your exterior surface with a top quality exterior filler ( the application should be done with a putty knife).

✓ Cleaning. With the help of a quality and soft brush, clear out the dirt and cobwebs on the exterior’s surface. Then wash the walls with a good detergent to remove any remaining dirt and grease. You can use a bristled brush and a high pressure cleaner to make the process easier.

✓ Mask the area. This involves using a top quality masking tape along the edges you do not wish to paint and pushing the tape’s edges down firmly in such a way to get straight edges.

Being the primary material used in wooden flooring installation, the floorboards are the main supply costs. With that in mind, you should also know that there are a large variety of wooden flooring types to select from, each with their unique pros and cons which should all be considered before making a purchase decision. If you’re looking to get the supply cost of wooden flooring in the UK, then you’ve come to the right place! Here is a basic price guide of various and some of the most popular types of floorboards.

If you wish to go for an engineered wood flooring, this looks better when compared to laminate and is more affordable than solid wood. You can expect to pay within the range of £20 to about £100 per square metre for this wood flooring type.

Laminate flooring, on the other hand, is also quite cheap, easy to install and quite hardwearing, however it tends to warp over time as a result of exposure to moisture and it also happens to be the least attractive of all the other flooring types. You can expect to pay within the range of £10 to about £50 per square metre for this wood flooring type.

Solid wood flooring is a great option with a better look and feel to it. However, it also tends to warp over time and more difficult to install as against laminate. You can expect to pay within the range of £20 to about £100 per square metre for this wood flooring type.

Parquet flooring is long lasting and very attractive, but quite expensive to have fitted.  You can expect to pay within the range of £25 to about £200 per square metre for this wood flooring type.

Did you just arrive home after spending some time away? Immediately you turn the door knob and walk in, you perceive an unpleasant sulfuric odour. The questions that arises are many, you simply don’t know whether its your sewer line or perhaps something else. But one thing you know is, an air that smells that bad shouldn’t be ignored. And that’s totally right! A gassy smell in your home or property is always a sign that something is wrong and should never be overlooked until you’ve been able to get a better information since you may make a critical judgement error. Hence, it’s important to always educate oneself first in order to know the best thing to do after smelling gas.

When it comes to sewer gas, it possesses a sulfuric odour just like natural gas. However unlike natural gas, sewer gas smells a bit more unpleasant - more like an egg that’s rotten and less like a skunk. This is usually as a result of a back up of sulfides, methane, ammonia as well as other inorganic compounds. When in small quantity ( as it is in most homes), sewer gas is quite harmless even though the smell isn’t something you’d like to live with or want any of your visitors to be welcomed with. However, this smell can be dangerous when it comes in high doses such as in a deep sewage tunnel.

Most sewer issues come from a number of locations which includes the p-traps, unconnected pipes, damaged line, damage vent, cracked seal as well as foundation cracks. Although little doses of sewer gas lead to health problems, it isn’t an excuse to overlook the problem. Call in a specialist and while at it, you can also schedule a plumbing inspection every year.