Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in Lincoln.

One of the most popular choices for roofing materials are roof slates. There is a number of advantages that a roof slate has, hey can be aesthetically pleasing, they can also increase the potential selling value of the house and many more. Slate is a sturdy and resilient material that delivers waterproofing physical characteristics to a pitched roof. Unlike other roof materials which absorb water slates do not. Therefore, slate is the most resistant towards freezing and water damage.

Find out the pitch of your roof

Before beginning with the fitting procedure, you need to figure out the pitch of your roof. The roof pitch commands how much overlap is essential with each slate. This has been made a lot easier than the early days with the advancement of technology.

Find out the required overlap

Once you’ve found out the exact pitch of your roof accurately, take a look at the slate producer’s description. Each manufacturer will propose the obligatory overlap in order to form a firm and safe slate roof.

Roll out the roof membrane

Firstly, guarantee your joists or trusses are clean of any sheards or old nails that could harm the membrane. You will now have to roll the chosen roofing membrane along the roof trusses. It is always wise to start from one of the bottom corners and keep rolling it along to the other corner.

Secure the roof membrane

Once the membrane has been moved out, use thump nails to protect one edge. You will now have to pull the membrane taut and carefully fix it into position. Do this before adding any nails across the membrane at points of intersection with the trusses for extra stability.

Batten placement

This is done to find the proper assignment of the battens. For this, you will need two full-sized slates along with an under eaves slate. Carefully position the battens on the top of the roof on the top of the overlay. Make sure not to fix them down since it will be easier to move them around and make any adjustments.

Do you want your house to be built using brick? Or perhaps you just require the professional services of a bricklayer. Regardless of your bricklaying needs, the cost charged depends on each job as every job is unique. Bricklayers generally look at each task individually and charges based on the complexity of each. We’ve put together this guide to give you an idea of the costs charged by bricklayers. Let’s have a look!

Generally, bricklayers charge either based on a daily rate or a fixed price for a particular amount of bricks ( usually a thousand bricks or 10 - 12 metres square). On the average, an experienced bricklayer can charge within a range of £150 to £200 daily rate and if a labour is needed for the job, an additional £60 to £100 may be included to get the job completed in a quick and fast manner. If the quoting is done based on the number of bricks to be incorporated, then a thousand bricks will be quoted in between £350 to £450 which should be completed in a couple of days.

You should however take note that most times, the bricklayer’s cost will depend on the amount of work involved in the project. As a result, a more tedious and challenging project will most definitely cost more than a simpler one. Examples of some difficult projects that’s likely to cost more are hard to reach areas, difficult sites as well as second storeys which are considered to be more challenging than single storey buildings. What’s more? The complexity of the project is also a great cost factor. While some projects are basically direct and straightforward, others involve curves and more complex designs which will ultimately make the cost jump up.

There are several effective ways to clean paving slabs. It’s important to pick a method that suits you and your paving material.

Whatever method you use, start by removing all weeds and loose debris from your paving. Then, if you have a pressure washer, you can simply use this to clean away any dirt.

If you don’t have a pressure washer, you can try using soapy water or watered-down bleach. If you use soapy water, mix a mild detergent like washing up liquid with warm water. Then pour it onto your paving, work it in with a brush and rinse it off with clean water.

If you use bleach, first make sure that the water won’t drain off onto any plant life, as this can kill it. You should also avoid using bleach on concrete slabs, as it will cause them to fade. Mix one-part bleach with five-parts water, pour it onto your paving and work it in with a brush. Then leave it for 15 minutes and rinse it off with clean water.

How To Prep Walls For Painting

This is exactly the part of a wall painting job that can make or mar the whole project. To ensure that your paint project doesn’t end up being disastrous, the most important place to start is from room preparation which includes cleaning, sanding as well as priming the walls before painting. Not every wall will require to go through all the preparation steps as all walls are unique and some are in better conditions than others. However, it’s advisable to thoroughly inspect the surfaces before you proceed to painting and take the necessary actions where required.

This is a very simple DIY job that should be completed in little time, however it’s also perhaps the most important step of the entire painting project. Hence, if you lack the confidence to pull this off, then we’d recommend employing a painting expert who can guarantee the best results for help. In this guide, we’ll should you how you can prepare your wall for painting.

✓ Cleaning. There is no single best way to properly clean a wall, but most walls will be just fine with a sponge and warm water. For walls that have been stained with oil or grime such as kitchen walls, you can apply grease cutting detergent and water mixture to wash and follow up with warm water to clean the residues and a damp cloth wiping to finish it off. Then leave to dry off properly.

✓ Remove mildrew. Wipe out mildrew using a sponge and solution that’s three to four parts water to one part bleach. Apply this solution and scrub the affected surface with a soft brush.

✓ Sanding. This step is only meant for walls with rough spots on its surface. Dull the uneven spots with a sandpaper, wipe away the dust and leave to dry. Use a fine grit sandpaper to sand the surfaces and let it dry properly.

✓ Priming. Prime the wall to get the most out of your paint. They work to disguise imperfections and create a smooth surface on which you can work on.

There are so many benefits that comes with building a porch in your home premises. It’s an extra space where a lot can be achieved such as drying a dripping wet dog, taking off your dirty shoes or boot and lots more. So if you’re considering to construct a porch, it’s definitely going to be a wise decision. However, before you get started, there’s a need to determine if you’ll need planning permission for a porch. It’s important to take note that planning laws are dynamic and can be updated at any point, so be sure only to use trusted sources only as your guide. If you’re the homeowner or landlord, it’s entirely your responsibility to obtain the right approval for any development project you wish to carry out within your premises.

A Porch can not be termed as an extension and neither is it a conservatory, they’re basically built to the home’s front covering the main entrance using a stone base or a brick. As a result, a porch does not need planning permission due to the fact that it’s covered by the permitted development rights if the specific guidelines for porches are complied with. Below are the instances where you WILL need planning permission for a porch.

✓ If the floor space is more than 3sqm (the wall inclusive).

✓ The highest point has a height of more than 3 metres.

✓ If the porch is situated within 2 metres of a boundary directly facing on to the road.

You may need planning permission if the house is a listed building, designated area or falls under an Article 4 Direction.

In order to build a porch without planning permission, you need to consider all the criteria stated above. You can also visit the Planning Portal website to get more detailed information before getting started.

1. Calculate the surface area for your decking Multiply the length (L) of your decking area by the width (W): L x W = Decking Surface Area (DSA) in m² 10 x 6 = 60m²
2. Work out the coverage of your deck boards Add your deck board width (DBW) to the expansion gap length (EGL), then add the deck board length (DBL) to the expansion gap width (EGW). Then multiply these numbers. (DBW + EGL) x (DBL + EGW) = Single Board Coverage (SBC) 0.144m + 0.005m = 0.149m 2.4m + 0.003m = 2.403m 0.149 x 2.403 = 0.358m²
3. Calculate the number of deck boards you need Multiply the SBC by 1.1 to allow for 10% wastage. Then, divide the DSA by the SBC. DSA / SCB x 1.1 = Total number of boards required 60m² / 0.358m² x 1.1 = 184.36 boards – so round up to 185 so you’re not left short.

Once you’ve chosen the perfect feature to suit the shape and style of your bathroom, it’s time to start putting it to good use. Read on for a step-by-step guide on how to install a bath, but first of all, below are the preparatory tools;

Preparation

Before you install a bath, there are some things that needs to be taken into considerations.Once you have decided where you are going to install your bath, use an electronic detector to make sure there are no hidden pipes or wires in the walls where you will be securing the fittings. It is also advisable to choose walls that have a stud so that you can attach your fittings so strongly.

When assembling your bath, lay it on top of a rug or blanket to ensure it doesn’t get scratched, and remove any protective film from the areas you will be working on, such as around the drain and tap fittings, as well as the sides where the bath will sit against the wall. Always turn off the water at the mains beforehand.

Note: The installation process will vary, depending on the design of your bath. It is always necessary to consult the manufacturer instructions alongside this guide.

MATERIALS

• Drill and appropriate drill bit
• Screwdriver
• Spirit level
• Tape measurer
• Hammer
• Pencil
• Caulking gun and silicone sealant

You’ll also need an extra pair of hands to help manoeuvre the bath into place.

Step 1

Attach the legs and the fittings by securing the appropriate bolts and channels, and then attach the feet.

Step 2

Measure and adjust the bath's position, Once you are sure that your bath is level, mark the places where it will be secured into the walls and floor. If your bath comes with wall fittings, use your pencil to mark the place where they will be secured to the walls. Do the same for the floor fittings.

Step 3

Prepare the wall for the fittings, align it with the wall at the location you marked and use your spirit level to make sure it is even. Drill holes and secure in place, making sure you use fittings that are suitable for the type of walls in your bathroom.

Step 4

Secure your bath by moving the bath back into the final position and align it with the holes you created, or on top of the timber batten. Once again, check that it is level. Turn the water back on and check for any leaks.

Step 5

Seal around the rim, fill it with water and trace silicone sealant around the edges, where the rim meets the wall. Allow it to dry for the recommended time.