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The fact is several buildings contain artex as well as other textured coating on walls and ceilings which are all likely to contain asbestos. However, artex itself is not the main threat here but the potentially deadly harmful fibres that’s contained in it. In this post, we’re going to look at whether or not artex truly contains the deadly abestos.

The short and simply answer to this question is yes, artex can definitely contain asbestos, however not all artex will contain asbestos. The main reason asbestos was a popular construction material is because it was not only cheap and strong but also because it was very durable and long lasting. It was used in numerous construction materials ( which includes artex ) before it was finally banned in the year 1999. unfortunately during the time when artex was very popular in the 60’s, 70’s as well as 80’s, asbestos was still very much in use during the period. And as a result, a lot of the artex incorporated during that period will contain the deadly asbestos fibres. However, this does not only apply to artex, but also other textured coatings containing asbestos were incorporated in construction until 1999 when asbestos was formerly banned in the UK. These asbestos containing materials are often used on walls as well as ceilings of residential properties.

Unfortunately, it’s not possible to know an asbestos containing artex just by looking at it. In order to determine whether or not an artex contains the deadly asbestos fibres, it’ll have to be sampled and tested in a laboratory. What’s more? While several artex contains asbestos, asbestos free artex was available from the 1970s. However, since it’s impossible to determine using the naked eye, all artex installed before the ban will be assumed to contain asbestos.

What Is Better, Steel Or Aluminium For A Front Door?

If you’re extending or refurbishing your home or property or constructing a new one, you’ll, sooner or later, get to the point when you’d have to determine the type of door material you want to use. The most common choices include steel, aluminium, wood and PVC. However, in this article we’ll only be looking at steel and aluminium to discuss which is better for a front door. Let’s take a look!

✓ Home security. Intruders and unwanted visitors are always a concern regardless of where you live. If this is your biggest concern when going for a front door then steel doors are your best bet as they happen to be one of the sturdiest and strongest materials that can be used to manufacture a door. Not only do they not crack or warp, but they also offer some high security models that features a large number of locks as well as hinges with various style designs. However, this does not mean aluminium are left behind on this subject either as there are also some high security doors that uses aluminium as the primary metal component.

✓ Thermal insulations. Both door presentations are not completely made of steel or aluminium. For a better insulation, they’ll feature other materials such as foam,wood, polystryene foam, or fibreglass core to prevent the escape of heat. As a result, both doors can do a great job when it comes to thermal insulation like keeping your house cool in the summer and warm in the winter for a better energy efficiency.

✓ Aesthetics. If this is your primary criteria for a front door, then aluminium has a wide range of colours and styles to match the style of your home.

When it comes to gas boilers, this is one of the most frequent questions that always pops up and for a good reason. When you invest a considerable amount of money to acquire and install a gas boiler in your business property, it’s only reasonable not only to expect the boiler to warm up your property efficiently, but also to do so for a long period of time. If you’ve just bought or about to get a new gas boiler, it’s likely you won’t have to worry about getting a replacement for a lengthy period of time. Several commercial gas boilers will last for anywhere between 10 to 15 years on the average. However in the event whereby you have an existing one that’s fast approaching the end of it’s useful life, then you should know the time go get a new gas boiler is just around the corner, and the earlier you make the purchase, the better (to avoid any surprise breakdowns that’ll leave your home super uncomfortable).

Just like any other home appliance, it’s a fact that an older gas boiler ( especially those that have been installed over a decade ago) are significantly less efficient that the new modern ones. When the older versions were manufactured is a completely different time to now as both technology and climate concerns are wide apart. So when your existing boiler is approaching the end of it’s useful life, it’ll be wise to start saving up to cover the cost of getting a new one. However, if it’s only about 5 years ago your boiler was installed, it’s highly likely to still be very efficient.

In several parts of the UK, air conditioning systems are a must especially in the warmer summer months. Fortunately, if your AC system isn’t functioning the way it’s supposed to, suffers frequent system breakdowns when overworked mostly during the hot summer days or perhaps you’re just tired of just having to manage with window units, the latest air conditioning units offers both features and performance that’s superior to the earlier models. And as you would have expected, each facet comes with a cost.

There are a number of factors that can determine the cost of an air conditioning unit. Out of all these factors, the size of your home happens to be the most significant factor that influences an air conditioning unit’s cost. Air conditioning systems are measured in tons, which is a measure of the amount of heat they’re able to remove from a home within an hour. As a rule of thumb, you’ll require about 1 ton of cooling per 500 to 600 square feet. Unfortunately, the square footage alone can’t be used to determine the tonnage. Other factors that’ll also play a significant role includes the efficiency of your most preferred AC unit, how well the home is insulated as well as the thermal nature of your home. On the average, a new air conditioning system for an average home should be within the range of £1000 to £3000 for a unit as well as the installation costs which can vary largely depending on the condition of your ducts. These figures may seem quite expensive, but when the hot summer days come, you’d be glad to have had one installed in your home.

How To Paint Exterior Window Sills And Frames?

Painting your exterior window sills and frames can be a very joyful and fun-filled activity if you know what you’re doing. It’s a task that can be completed in little time by an experienced DIYer, however if you do not have the confidence to pull off this project, then you’d be better off calling in a professional for help to avoid costly mistakes. In this guide, we’ll take you through the exterior window sills and frames painting process.

✓ Prepare the window sills and frames. This includes, brushing the surfaces with warm water and gentle soap, scrubbing the windows to ensure all the edges and cracks are free from all forms of dirt, rinsing it with water and use a soft, clean cloth to wipe off any excess liquid and finally, drying it off with a towel or leaving it to dry off by itself before you start to paint.

✓ Remove any signs of moulds and moss, fill in the cracks between frame and glass using a multi-purpose filler, sand the frame and wipe out any dirt or dust on or around it using a vacuum cleaner, a clean cloth or soft brush. Once done, you can then apply a coat of water-based primer and let it dry off before painting.

✓ Painting. Firstly, you’ll have to sand your primed windows to make an even, smooth surface and apply an undercoat evenly to the surface. Once completed, you can then apply at least 2 coats of paint using a quality brush. Make sure you sand the first layer carefully before you apply the second to get a great finish.

✓ Once dried, you can the finish with a top coat (make sure you go for a weather proof paint for the exterior). For the window sills, you’ll have to apply the exterior paint gently with masking tape around the edges to protect the walls from the dripping paint.

With the ability to add approximately one third of your existing living space ( by converting your old, unused attic) to your home or property without having to let go of your garden, it’s quite easy to see the reason why loft conversion has rapidly grown to become one of the most popular home improvements in the UK. However some homeowners usually shy away from the idea simply by looking at the perceived high cost of carrying out such a project, despite several researches showing that loft conversions offers the best rate of return on initial investment when compared to the other home improvement projects. So exactly how much would it cost to carry out this project?

Just like several other home improvement projects, the cost of a loft conversion varies greatly depending on a wide range of influencing factors. These factors include the size of your home, how old your home is as well as the quality of the fixtures and fittings you want to install. For instance, a high end bathtub alone can cost you thousands of pounds, meanwhile you can also construct a full bathroom suite on just a couple of hundred pounds. However, to give you an idea of the minimum cost of a loft project we’ll look at the most popular types and the minimum cost of each.

✓ Internal Loft Conversion - The most affordable type of loft conversion tends to start from £25,000 and above.

✓ Dormer or L-Shaped Dormer Loft Conversion. These are the most popular types of loft conversion. Dormer price tends to start from £35,000, while the L-shaped dormer starts from £45,000.

✓ Mansard Loft Conversion - This involves replacing the entire side of a sloping roof with a vertical wall and flat roof. It requires a planning permission. The type of loft conversion usually starts from £45,000.

✓ Hip To Gable Loft Conversion - This usually starts from £50,000.

Did you just arrive home after spending some time away? Immediately you turn the door knob and walk in, you perceive an unpleasant sulfuric odour. The questions that arises are many, you simply don’t know whether its your sewer line or perhaps something else. But one thing you know is, an air that smells that bad shouldn’t be ignored. And that’s totally right! A gassy smell in your home or property is always a sign that something is wrong and should never be overlooked until you’ve been able to get a better information since you may make a critical judgement error. Hence, it’s important to always educate oneself first in order to know the best thing to do after smelling gas.

When it comes to sewer gas, it possesses a sulfuric odour just like natural gas. However unlike natural gas, sewer gas smells a bit more unpleasant - more like an egg that’s rotten and less like a skunk. This is usually as a result of a back up of sulfides, methane, ammonia as well as other inorganic compounds. When in small quantity ( as it is in most homes), sewer gas is quite harmless even though the smell isn’t something you’d like to live with or want any of your visitors to be welcomed with. However, this smell can be dangerous when it comes in high doses such as in a deep sewage tunnel.

Most sewer issues come from a number of locations which includes the p-traps, unconnected pipes, damaged line, damage vent, cracked seal as well as foundation cracks. Although little doses of sewer gas lead to health problems, it isn’t an excuse to overlook the problem. Call in a specialist and while at it, you can also schedule a plumbing inspection every year.

All new windows come with an energy efficiency rating from A to G. A is best, while G is the lowest rating. Anything above C is considered good, but these days most companies will be able to supply you with A-rated windows to maximise your energy efficiency.