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When you’re about to transform from the standard electricity to solar energy, what determines your solar system’s size is the amount of solar that’s required. The amount of solar that you’ll need, on the other hand, requires considering the end goal, be it to increase money savings, reduce environmental contamination, maximize Returns On Investment ( ROI), or just to copy what the neighbour’s done.

In order the determine the number of solar panels that is needed, the first step would be to calculate the number of kWhs that’s currently being used. A kWh is what’s used to determine the amount of energy that has been incorporated over time which the utility uses to bill you. What’s strongly recommended to create a suitable range is a 6 to 12 months average of your household electricity bill. Other factors that can play a key role in the determination of the number of solar panel needed include the following:

✓ Sunlight exposure hours. In order to know just how much energy your solar panels will generate, there’s a need to know the number of direct sunlight hours you should expect on a daily basis. For example if you stay in a region that’s usually very sunny, then it’ll be reasonable to expect more energy production per panel than regions that are usually cloudy.

✓ Angle and size of the roof. Roofs with a lot of workable space may require to let go of some efficiency opting for larger and cost effective panels to achieve the targeted energy. However not all homeowners have sufficient roof space or shade coverage for the solar panel they actually want. Also, the degree at which the roof slants will also determine if the sunlight is hitting the panels well enough and the amount of energy that can be generated thereof.

When it comes to extending your home or creating more living space, you can either construct an extension, transform a current space or add a conservatory. While all the three available options to create more living space in your home are worth giving a shot, the wooden conservatory happens to be the easiest and cheapest of them all. If you are thinking about building wooden conservatory of your own, then you’d probably want to know exactly how much its going to cost. The simple answer is that it depends on multiple factors such as the type of wood required, the size, style as well as the quality of materials to be incorporated in your final conservatory design.

The most significant determinant, however, is the type of wood required. Below is a breakdown of the prices based on this factor:

• Hardwood Conservatory

Hardwood such as elm and beech are one of best options for building conservatories due to their complex structure which helps increase the durability and stability of conservatories. The price of an average hardwood conservatory without fitting usually ranges £10,000 to £15,000.

• Oak Conservatory

Due to its popularity and high availability, oak is a very common wood type used in the construction of conservatories. And as a result, it can be gotten within a range of £9,000 to £10,000 for just the wood. Oak can also be made to be resistant to bugs and pests. The price of this type of oak wooden conservatory jumps to around £15,000 to £20,000.

• Timber Conservatory

This refers to various types of wood that’s readily available before being subjected to treatment in different plants or factories. Due to its rather rough exterior and lack of a clean finish, this type of wood is usually gotten at a giveaway price. Depending on the type of wood, the price to buy just a timber conservatory kit can vary between £10,000 to £20,000.

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Did you just arrive home after spending some time away? Immediately you turn the door knob and walk in, you perceive an unpleasant sulfuric odour. The questions that arises are many, you simply don’t know whether its your sewer line or perhaps something else. But one thing you know is, an air that smells that bad shouldn’t be ignored. And that’s totally right! A gassy smell in your home or property is always a sign that something is wrong and should never be overlooked until you’ve been able to get a better information since you may make a critical judgement error. Hence, it’s important to always educate oneself first in order to know the best thing to do after smelling gas.

When it comes to sewer gas, it possesses a sulfuric odour just like natural gas. However unlike natural gas, sewer gas smells a bit more unpleasant - more like an egg that’s rotten and less like a skunk. This is usually as a result of a back up of sulfides, methane, ammonia as well as other inorganic compounds. When in small quantity ( as it is in most homes), sewer gas is quite harmless even though the smell isn’t something you’d like to live with or want any of your visitors to be welcomed with. However, this smell can be dangerous when it comes in high doses such as in a deep sewage tunnel.

Most sewer issues come from a number of locations which includes the p-traps, unconnected pipes, damaged line, damage vent, cracked seal as well as foundation cracks. Although little doses of sewer gas lead to health problems, it isn’t an excuse to overlook the problem. Call in a specialist and while at it, you can also schedule a plumbing inspection every year.

Having your office air conditioning units serviced on a regular basis comes with a wide range of benefits. With proper servicing of your unit, your air con will be able to blow cold or hot air into your space, the lifespan of the heating and cooling system is extended, harmful bacteria and fungal spores will also be removed and lots more. However, since servicing of office air con units does not come free, you’d probably want to know the number of times the task is needed in a year. In this post, we’re going to look at the recommended number of times to have your office heating and cooling units serviced.

Servicing of an office heating and cooling system is generally recommended to be done twice a year - once in the fall and the other in the spring. By doing this, you’ll be not only be able to guarantee that the unit is clean, but also that the parts are in great shape and that it’s working as efficiently as possible. What’s more? This task has to be carried out whether or not you put the air con unit to use. Even in the event whereby the system is leak proof and adequate coolant is available there are usually still reason to have it serviced. If you haven’t used the AC unit in your office for quite a long time, the hoses and seals become brittle more quickly due to the fact that the lubricant and coolant do not circulate.

Asides from having your units checked by a professional, there’s also a need to carry out some maintenance tasks by yourself. This way, you get to enjoy your office AC unit for a long period of time.

Do you know about 25 percent of heat that escapes from an uninsulated house are lost through the roof? Fortunately, roof insulation is something that can done by all DIYers irrespective of their experience levels. However, if you happen to lack the confidence necessary to pull off this, then it’s strongly recommended that you hire the services of a professional who can guarantee the best results and also save you time and money that could arise from potential cost mistakes. Let’s take a look!

• Clear out all clutter. This involves taking out all the rubbish and clutter from the loft. In order to work effectively, you’ll need a totally clear and empty loft space.
• Ensure that there’s sufficient insulation. The importance of a good ventilation cannot be overstated. Poor ventilation will result in forming of condensation and this condensation can make the roof timbers rot and compromise the structural integrity of the entire roof. If there are no roof windows which is the easiest way to provide a loft ventilation, the next best option would be to follow the loft floor along to the point where the roof comes down to meet it. There should be a gap at this point, also referred to as the eaves, between the outside wall and the underside of the roof.
• Measure your loft area. Take a measurement of the loft space in order to calculate the amount of insulation as well as the type you need. If you’re not sure, always get more that it’s required as skimming on the amount you use will only back fire in form of increased energy costs
• Check for water pipes.

To get started, simply make sure all cracks and gaps in the ceiling are filled using a standard filler or decorator caulk. Once done, clean the gaps in the joists and even to the point of hovering all the dust up. Finally,check for the hazards that can cause you problems before laying the loft insulation.

Competent Roofer is a scheme that allows professionals to self-certify that their work is in line with Building Regulations. If you don’t use a registered Competent Roofer, you’ll have to pay your local authority to certify the work, so we recommend you use a Competent Roofer to save yourself extra outlay at the end.

The short and simple answer to this question is, it depends. Artex surface coating was manufactured with white abestos ( until the mid 1980’s ) in order to strengthen as well as harden it. In other words, this implies that all the ceilings and walls coverings made by Artex Ltd and other manufactures at the time are highly likely to contain asbestos. Although Artex Ltd stopped using asbestos as early as the mid 1980’s, there were still other manufacturers who continued using it until 1999 when the laws and regulations covering the use of asbestos changed in the year 2000.

Asbestos, however, is only harmful when disturbed and releases its deadly fibres. For instance, when it’s being sanded and removed as it usually poses no risks when left undisturbed. Since it’s not possible to identify Artex containing asbestos fibres with the naked eye, it’s strongly recommended that you hire the services of a qualified person or company to help determine if you have asbestos in your ceilings or walls especially if your house was constructed before the year 2000. The professionals will be able to advise you on the best course of action as well as if it’s dangerous.

To be sure if your Artex contains asbestos, you’ll need to have the artex sampled by an asbestos surveyor. If you’re planning to have a construction or maintenance work done on your property, and the artex is likely to be in the way or disturbed, there’s a need for you to have a refurbishment or demolition asbestos survey done. This will ensure that all the areas that’ll be disturbed by the work is properly tested to determine the presence or otherwise of asbestos. If found, the artex will have to be addressed and either removed or protected before any work can take place.

1. Start in one corner of the sub-frame and position the first board across the inner joists. You want the deck board in the opposite direction to the inner joists, ensuring that it’s flush with the frame. Position any end-to-end joins between the deck boards halfway across an inner joist so you can screw both boards into the joist for stability. Make sure you keep a gap of between 5-8mm to allow for expansion of the wood.
2. Begin to screw your deck boards to the joists. You’ll need to secure the deck board to every joist is covers along your deck frame. Use two screws for every joist. Mark where you’re going to add your screws, ensuring that they are at least 15mm from the end of the board and 20mm from the outside edges. Drill pilot holes for the screws, being careful to only drill through the deck board and not the joist. Then screw the decking screws into the holes.
3. Continue to screw in the deck boards, ensuring you leave the correct expansion gap. You can stagger the deck board joins across the deck for more strength.
4. Sand down any cut ends if you need to before applying decking preserver to protect the timber from rotting.