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Cement is a crucial element in bricklaying that’s widely used in both construction as well as finishing works. Generally, they’re used to aerate concrete blocks, connect bricks, prepare plaster, floor levelling as well as the making of precast products. The major reason cement is one of the most common construction materials as its incredible ability to hold structure together. To get a cement plaster, you’d simply have to mix cement with both water and sand. However, when you mix cement with lime, sand and water, you’ll get a mortar.

For cements mortars to be used inside joints, you’ll have to include 1 part cement at the minimum to not more than 2 parts sand by weight which should be dry mixed and moistened with enough water to allow for troweling and packing without falling apart. Generally, the cement sand ratio in a mortar is in between 1:2 to 1:6. The cement and sand mix ratio is largely based on the importance of the project.

Cement provides a plethora of uses in bricklaying and these includes:

• Preparation of cement concrete

• Preparation of cement mortar

• Building fireproof and thermal proof structures

• Building chemical proof structures

• Serving as a grout material

• Building hydrographic and frost resistant structures

• Manufacturing precast members

• Constructing aesthetic concrete

• Constructing cement concrete roads

There are several types of cements with each having its specific purpose. For instance, the type of cement more suited to building a fire proof structure is a high alumnia cement and to build a hydrographic structure, cements like expanding cement, hydrophobic cement, pozzolana cement and quick setting cement are the best bet. Acid resistant cements are more useful in building chemical proof structures, portland cements are best suited to making grout materials, while coloured cements are preferable to building aesthetic structures.

Are Glass UPVC Conservatories Cold?

An extension is always a great addition to any home or property and while it’s a handy space, it also helps to enhance the visibility of the garden. If you plan to extend, the choice is yours as you can develop a customized design to give you the much desired appearance as well as function. However, in order to give more natural light to a single storey extension and for a more modern look, so many homeowner’s wonder the viability of glass roof. The short and quick answer to this question is yes, but will this lead to a trade off when it comes to heat loss?

If you’ve had the chance of making use of a poorly designed conservatory, you’d be in a better position to explain how weather affects the living space. Due to fact that glass is being used, heat becomes very difficult to retain as it easily leaves the conservatory. However in the summer, this quality can actually be helpful as conservatories without the right glass or the appropriate vents can heat up in just an hour or even less. Overall, all these are extremes a glass roof extension wouldn’t suffer but there are still a few things to be learned.

First and foremost, glass needs to insulate the space, it’ll never perform as good as a flat roof when you make use of a cheap glass. Then secondly, the installation of the glass roof extension has to be designed and carried out for your unique home or property by a specialist due to the fact that both size and direction would have to be put into consideration. This way, your UPVC conservatory wouldn’t have to so cold and unusable especially during the winter months.

• Paving slabs – old or cheap ones are fine
• Timber for the frame and legs
• Type 1 MOT hardcore

1. Mark out the area as we explain in ‘How to lay decking’. Then, dig to 200mm below where you want to surface of the decking to be.
2. Add a 50mm layer of hardcore and make sure it’s compact.
3. Build the decking sub-frame as we describe in ‘How to build a deck frame’.
4. Lay out paving slabs along the edges and in the centre of the area. This will help to spread the weight of the decking.
5. Set the decking frame on the slabs, checking for high or low points and adding off-cuts of timber where needed. Don’t forget to sand and seal these off-cuts with decking preservative.
6. Add your joists and then the deck boards, leaving the recommended gaps of expansion of between 5-8mm.

The cost to charge an electric car in the UK varies between home, work and public charging.

For a typical electric car with a 60kWh battery and ~200 mile range:

• Charging at home: Costs about £9.20 for a full charge. *
• Charging at work: Many employers will install workplace charging points and typically offer free access throughout the day.
• Charging at public locations: Public chargepoints at supermarkets or car parks are often free to use for the duration of your stay.
• Rapid charging: Rapid charging points are normally found at motorway service stations and typically cost £6.50 for a 30 min, ~100 mile charge.

Charging an electric car at home costs about £9.20 for a full charge* and is the most convenient and cost-effective way to keep your car fully charged. Most drivers will charge their electric car overnight, waking up to a full battery every morning.

Average domestic electricity rate in the whole of the UK is about 17p per kWh.

Fully charging a 60kWh electric car will cost between £9.00 and £9.90 (depending on where you live) and give you about 200 miles of range.

* Costs calculated at 17p/kWh based on usable battery is ~54kWh (90%).

Many examples of asbestos will not need removing, for example if it is present in artex that is in good condition. However, if you are carrying out building work on or near the asbestos it should be carefully removed before the building work starts to make sure it is not accidentally disturbed.

Some properties are unable to have double glazing, especially those in conservation areas or listed buildings. To counter this problem and still benefit from a warmer home and cheaper bills, secondary glazing is an option. Secondary glazing is a second pane fitted inside your original window. Secondary glazing will still save you around £105 yearly.

Apart from the films where you’d notice cute little mickeys running around the house, in reality, only a few (if any) would feel comfortable living in a mice infested property. Being smart critters, mice can cause a home owner a series of issues when they infest a home or property. Rats are pests bringing about a plethora of health hazards. They’ll live comfortably off your food and under your shelter while also wrecking havoc everywhere they set their foot on in your home and even spread harmful diseases to humans. The wild rats can bite or even scratch when approached and will seek shelter anywhere possible like in your attic, kitchen, store and any damp area you can imagine. And worse still, they reproduce quickly as a female rat can give birth to six litters annually with up to 12 pups. Therefore, if left unattended to,an unwelcome visit can soon become an infestation within a little time.

To totally eradicate rats from your home, you can start by thinking like one. Like any other mammal, mice need food, water and shelter to survive and thrive. Removing one or all these three things can effectively help you get rid of rats in your home. Generally, there are several ways to get rid of rats which can be natural without the use of poison and artificial, with the use of poison.

The natural approach involves the use of peppermint oil and setting of traps. Using of peppermint oil is, however, not backed by any scientific evidence but according to several source it actually works. Simply dip a cotton wool inside a peppermint oil and place at strategic location throughout your home. Setting of traps can also be very trick as mice are very smart creatures who are always suspicious. So unless this is done in a cunning way, it might prove to be largely ineffective.

The most effective approach to get rid of mice by yourself would be to make use of poison. However, this method can be very deadly if not done with care. Overall, the best and safest way to eradicate mice from your home is to contact a professional pest control team for help as they possess the experience, knowledge and equipments to ensure a fast, safe and effective mice control.

A Velux window is a brand of roof window, but the brand is so popular that people often use the name to describe the entire type of window. They are windows that are installed at the same orientation and ‘in plane’ with the surrounding roof, and they’re usually installed at a minimum of a 15-degree pitch. You can buy roof windows that offer completely frameless internal views for a really clean look in your loft conversion, while some come with built-in shutters.

Velux windows aren’t to be confused with rooflights which usually refers to a glazed unit that’s installed on a flat roof. It might also mean a window that’s been installed on a pitched roof out of plane with the level of the tiling.

People also confuse roof windows with skylights, which normally can’t be opened or closed and are usually smaller than Velux windows. Skylights, therefore, only let daylight into the room whereas roof windows also help with ventilation.

If you’re using your loft as a room in your home rather than simply for storage, you must have a roof window installed. Skylights won’t be enough as they don’t allow for ventilation. It doesn’t have to be a Velux window – it can be any type of roof window. Luckily, they tend to come in standard sizes and they must be CE marked if they’re sold as a roof window, so they should be easy to find.