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The fact is several buildings contain artex as well as other textured coating on walls and ceilings which are all likely to contain asbestos. However, artex itself is not the main threat here but the potentially deadly harmful fibres that’s contained in it. In this post, we’re going to look at whether or not artex truly contains the deadly abestos.

The short and simply answer to this question is yes, artex can definitely contain asbestos, however not all artex will contain asbestos. The main reason asbestos was a popular construction material is because it was not only cheap and strong but also because it was very durable and long lasting. It was used in numerous construction materials ( which includes artex ) before it was finally banned in the year 1999. unfortunately during the time when artex was very popular in the 60’s, 70’s as well as 80’s, asbestos was still very much in use during the period. And as a result, a lot of the artex incorporated during that period will contain the deadly asbestos fibres. However, this does not only apply to artex, but also other textured coatings containing asbestos were incorporated in construction until 1999 when asbestos was formerly banned in the UK. These asbestos containing materials are often used on walls as well as ceilings of residential properties.

Unfortunately, it’s not possible to know an asbestos containing artex just by looking at it. In order to determine whether or not an artex contains the deadly asbestos fibres, it’ll have to be sampled and tested in a laboratory. What’s more? While several artex contains asbestos, asbestos free artex was available from the 1970s. However, since it’s impossible to determine using the naked eye, all artex installed before the ban will be assumed to contain asbestos.

Visible alarm systems can deter burglars. There are a range of options for what happens when an alarm is triggered. For example, there are bells only, alarm receiving centre, and homeowner monitored alarms. These are all effective as deterrence methods, and which you choose will depend on your specific needs.

A leaky plumbing making some irritating sounds is not something anyone would love to live with. Whether your toilet is broken and needs to be replaced or perhaps you simply want a new modern toilet and is more visually appealing and up to date, like most DIY projects, the cost of fitting a new toilet is based on a number of factors. These factors the products or materials needed, the cost of the labour as well as the type of the toilet you’d like to install. It’s also important to note that a toilet replacement job may run the risk of extra materials being required for completion. Although a simple toilet differs in price ranging between £30 to about £100. For a cistern toilet, you should be ready to incur within the range of £100 to £300. What’s more? If a new inflow and outflow are required you should expect to incur an additional £30 for a top quality pipe. Also, pre-wall mounting models are usually more costly and under specific conditions, it may need some tiles which will also increase the costs.

Overall, the average price you should expect to incur for a professional plumber to install a toilet is within the range of £180 to £700 based on your preferred type of toilet and the need or otherwise of a pipework. Normally, most plumbers charge about £100 to £300 for each job based on the pipework that’s required. In order to minimize costs, you can also decide to sell off your existing toilet yourself as disposal prices have increased.

The main difference in price is primarily going to be the quality of the toilet that you opt for. Therefore, in order to lower your costs you can explore budget toilet options.

Most domestic solar thermal panels do not need planning permission and are covered by permitted development rights. There are restrictions on the size and location of these systems. If you live in a conservation area or listed building, or want to install a very large solar thermal system, check with your local authority to see if you will need planning permission.

Fitting a Velux window into a slate roof is very similar to the way you’d install it in other roof types. All roof windows, whether a Velux-branded one or not, will come with detailed instructions for you to follow if you want to have a go at fitting it yourself. But here are some brief instructions to give you an idea of what’s involved in installing a Velux window into a slate roof:

1. After you’ve removed the Velux window from its packaging, remove the sash (the part that opens) from the frame, according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
2. Next, you need to prepare the opening for the window. You can often cut through the felt, remove one of the battens from under a slate, then slide all the slate tiles into the roof space. You should then make the cut 40-60mm wider than the window, cutting away roof timbers then replacing them with more around the opening to strengthen it.
3. The roof window’s bottom brackets need to be installed on one of the existing battens for the slate roof. One of the slate courses should line up 105mm below the top edge of the batten you use.
4. Then, measure from the top edge of the batten upwards to the height of the window plus 45mm. This is where the top installation batten should be installed, with an overhang of 100mm on each side.
5. Remove the course of slates below the window, trim any excess felt and fold it over the surrounding timber. This helps with waterproofing.
6. Add the insulation collar according to the Velux window manufacturer’s instructions.
7. Place the frame in the opening, adding the brackets according to the instructions. You’ll find that lots of roof windows have pre-drilled holes to make it easy for you.
8. Replace the sash and line up the hinges. Take a look at the opening at the bottom between the sash and the frame – it should be even along the entire width. Remove the sash again to fix the upper brackets according to instructions.
9. Add the underfelt collar for your roof window as instructed by the manufacturer, then replace any slates at the bottom. You might need to cut them to size.
10. Next, add the flashing according to the instructions, along with any parts that are not yet attached, including the hood section and top flashing piece.
11. Replace all the slates around the window, allowing 60-100mm of space between the course of slates above the window and the top of the window to allow for rainwater drainage. Then replace the sash into the frame again.
12. Add the vapour barrier on the inside of the window using the screws provided, then tape it to the existing vapour barrier to prevent moisture from reaching your roof structure.

And that’s it! If you think that sounds a bit complicated, ask a roofer or window installer to fit your roof window into a slate roof for you. You’ll get a better finish and you can be sure that you won’t get any leaks from a botched installation.

Fitting a wall hung toilet in your home or property bring about a plethora of benefits. Not only are they a feat of modern washroom design, but they’re also able to offer a wealth of practical benefits. Given the fact that the cistern and pipework are all going to be concealed within a duct system, the areas that’ll be exposed is significantly reduced. This, ultimately, protects them from accidental damage and tampering, and also leaves a flush, easy to clean surface which goes a long way to improve the hygiene in your washroom.

Fitting a wall hung toilet can be a tricky and time consuming task especially if you don’t know what you’re doing. If you lack the confidence to pull this off, it’s advisable to hire the services of a plumber who can guarantee the best results for help. So how do you fit a wall hung toilet?

• Complete the 1st fix plumbing works. This should be done before the installation of the IPS panels and cubicles.
• Fit the stainless steel frame to the wall. High Pressure Laminate and solid grade Laminate IPS panels usually comes with pre-clipped metal DUCT set framing. Simply unclip the panels and number them on the back. Fix Unistrut to the back wall of where the new IPS DUCT will be positioned. Once done, you can then fit the stainless steel framework and fix the frame with M10 bolts to where it makes contact with the wall and floor.
• Wall hung pan support frame. This involves bolting the frame into the floor and back wall of the newly created void
• Lining up your toilet. Make sure that your toilet pan are marked out even and spaced before hanging it to enable cubicle enclosures that’ll be fitted later on.
• Cisterns, flush kits and cut outs. This invloves cutting out holes on the solid grade laminate IPS panels to allow for you push butoon or sensor flush control, waste outlet, flush cone and fixing rods. Once done, clip back the IPS panels to the stainless steel DUCT set frame.
• Second fixing your wall hung toilet pan and controls.

If you wish to work as a quantity surveyor or perhaps you’re just looking to hire one, then one of the first things that comes to mind is the qualifications to look out for. To work as a quantity surveyor, you’ll normally require a degree in quantity surveying or commercial management which is accredited by the RICS (Royal Institution of Chartered Surveyors). However, in the event whereby your degree as an undergraduate happens to be in a different subject, there’s still a chance for you to become a qualified quantity surveyor. To achieve this, all you need do is to take a Royal Institution of Chartered Surveyors accredited post graduate conversion course. Degrees that this applies to includes the following: Economics, building or construction, geography, civil or structural engineering, mathematics, project management ( construction) as well as urban and land studies.

Typically, the post graduate course will take about a year to complete ( on a full time basis), whereas it takes about 2 years on a part time basis. What’s more? There are some employers that will recruit some graduates as “non-cognates ( meaning those with a non RICS accredited degrees ) and support them financially through the accredited post graduate course. Furthermore, you can as well take a RICS accredited degree apprenticeship whether undergraduate, PGDip or Masters, in quantity surveying as well as project management that combines work with part time study at a university.

However, if you’re without a degree, there’s still an option. Simply start work as a technical surveyor ( also referred to as surveying technician ) and then apply for a part time study while working to qualify as a quantity surveyor.

To install one small double glazed window, it will take anywhere between two hours and half a day. It will depend on whether one installer is fitting your window or two. And if you’re doing it yourself and don’t have any professional experience, it will take even longer.

When the window fitters arrive, they will make sure they’ve got safe access to the window and move any heavy furniture if they need to. Any good installer will lay down a dust sheet, but it’s a good idea to check that they’ve got one laid down before they start.

The first step any window installer will take is to double check the measurements of the new frame against your existing one. Hopefully it should match up, so then they’ll take the old window out. Then, they’ll insert the new frame into the aperture and bolt it into the concrete. They'll check it with a spirit level to ensure it’s even before moving onto the glass sealed unit.

The installer will place the glass into the aperture, then fit the beads to secure the glass in the frame. They’ll then use silicone and trim on the inside and outside to ensure the window looks perfect. You won’t be able to see where they’ve used sealants or trims because they’ll colour match them so it’s not noticeable. Then, they’ll tidy up all of their tools and the working area and let you know what needs to be done in terms of proving that the window meets building regulations. Most good installers are registered with a self-certification scheme, so will be able to issue a certification once the work is complete.