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How you install commercial rubber roofing is similar to fitting it on a residential property, except that the area that’s covered is likely to be bigger. With commercial properties, you should always leave any maintenance and repair works to the professionals – whether you own or lease the property, you could invalidate any insurance if you try to install rubber roofing yourself. We’ll outline the steps roofers will take when installing rubber roofing on a commercial property.

Firstly, the installers will remove any existing coverings and clean and dry the surface thoroughly. This is vital in ensuring that the rubber will stick. They will then unwrap the EDPM rubber membrane and leave it to rest until it’s fully expanded. On a warm day this may take around half an hour.

Next, the roofers will work with half a sheet of rubber at a time and adhere it to the roof surface. They may use a water-based adhesive which they will spread onto the roof in sections, then roll the membrane onto the surface before moving onto the next section. If they’re using a bonded adhesive, they will apply it to both the roof and the rubber and leave it to dry until it’s tacky before extending the membrane.

Once the EDPM rubber is rolled out, the installers will brush the surface with a large broom to get rid of bubbles and provide a stronger bond. Then they will work of the edges, applying adhesive to roof and walls edges, sealing corners and creating watertight seals. They’ll also tidy up any excess membrane and seal all the trims.

As long as it’s installed correctly, your commercial rubber roofing should last you decades without any repairs needed. It’s always best to inspect your roof regularly to spot any damage before it becomes a bigger problem.

Most Sun Tunnel Kits are available in sizes from 250mm Diameter to 550mm Diameter. This gives you a good range to choose from depending on the size of the room you are trying to brighten.

• 250mm Sun Tube – Perfect for room sizes up to 10m2. (Hallways, Small Bathrooms)
• 350 – 450mm Sun Tubes – Perfect for rooms 10 to 15m2. Larger Hallways, Stairwells and Bathrooms.
• 550mm Sun Tube – Ideal for rooms 15 – 22m2. Kitchens, Bedrooms, Living Rooms.

It is constantly important to consider your skill degree as well as your physical capacity when picking to tackle a Do It Yourself task. Generally, sun tunnel setup is not made to be tried by anybody without experience and training for the following reasons:

• You will likely need professional devices which may include scaffolding.
• It is really unsafe to deal with a roofing as a result of the danger of falling.
• Your sun tunnel have to be appropriately secured to avoid leaks as well as drafts coming through your roofing.
• This installment is not a straightforward, easy job. It involves eliminating roofing ceramic tiles, attaching a panel, thoroughly installing the passage and also even more.

The roof is a particularly important part of the home, providing weather and water protection. Therefore, it’s important to regularly check your guttering system and clean out any debris that could cause blockages.Advice given is to consider having a mesh gutter guard to prevent the build-up of leaves and other debris, especially if you want to harvest rainwater.

If your existing roof is still in good condition but the membrane is getting old, it’s often not worth exposing the structure to the weather whilst the contractor strips off the old membranes. The contractor will leave them in place to act as a base layer for a new roofing system. As long as there are no other problems with your roof, then overlaying is a good way to replace your flat roof.If you have any more questions about flat roofing that aren’t listed here, fill out our form to ask a contractor.

How to repair a flat roof depends on the type of flat roof you have. We’ll talk about how to repair felt, asphalt, fibreglass and EDPM flat roofs yourself. But ultimately if you want the best finish, it’s best to ask a professional to repair your flat roof for you. Repairing a flat roof Whether you’ve got an old pour-and-roll type felt roof or a newer torch-on felt flat roof, you can get cracks, lifting around joints, leaks or dips. As a temporary measure, you can buy a special paint that you paint over cracks. For a more permanent repair, you can add a patch of torched-on felt or add a layer on top. Asphalt flat roof repair As your asphalt flat roof gets older, you may notice blisters, cracks or shrinkage and sagging around flashings. Again, you can use a paint on fix from a tin as a temporary repair, or add heat-applied flashing tape around flashing. For a more permanent fix you can use a liquid system, but many are only available to the trade market. You can also add a patch of torched-on roofing felt over a crack. How to repair a fibreglass (GRP) flat roof Fibreglass flat roofs are usually excellent, but problems can involve leaking flashing and cracks near upstands, trims or board joints. You can add acrylic sealant to cracks or holes for a good DIY repair, but a flashing problem is more difficult to fix. You’ll need to clean and sand the affected area of flashing, then laminate a 600g chopped strand mat into place, cure it and add a topcoat colour to match the roof. That sounds like a job better left to a specialist. EDPM rubber flat roof repair Rubber roofs often suffer from shrinkage when mechanical fixings haven’t been used near upstands, flashing leaks or holes or cuts. If you’ve got a small tear that you want to repair, you can add some lap sealant to the area – but use it sparingly. For a more permanent repair to flashing, buy some self-adhesive flashing that will mould into shape easily. Clean the area you want to repair, add EDPM primer, then stick the patch of flashing on from the centre outwards with a hard roller. You can add lap sealant around the edges if you want more protection from water.

An eave is the edge of a roof, which is why they are now and then called roof eaves. On a household's outside, eaves can stick out outside the side of the building, serving both ornamental and applied purposes. The eave of a house has come to mean the lower area of the roof that projects after the external covering, as opposite to a cornice, which is part of the entablature in Classical architecture.

Think of how a roof outspreads outside the covering, and then think about how a hard rain may roll down the roof and, on the ground, away from the structure. Centuries ago, the eavesdrop was that indentation line made around a structure when the rain fell off the edge of the roof onto the ground.

Types of Eaves

A roof can come to a conclusion in essentially three ways. A closed eave is the one which has very little or no overhang at all. An open eave has a visible overhang, projecting beyond the roof brackets. A boxed eave is surrounded with a soffit.

The Use of Eaves?

An eave can defend the siding and substance of a structure. A roof eave bulging beyond the sides permits snow and rain to fall from the roof away from the covering, to the ground. The more the "weather" gets thrown away from the household, the chances of you having a dry basement increases.

In cases of regions with a warmer climate, a large eave can help provide shade to the interior of the house. In rainy environments, the prolonged eaves of Asian architecture deliver shelter from the climate, as well as direction. In the 21st century, an eave may be an inconspicuous site for security cameras and light.