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How Much Is It To Replace A Garage Roof?

The size of your garage will be the main determinant of the cost of a new garage roof. However, the present condition of your roof structure as well as the type of roof covering preferred are also huge factors. In the UK, the cost of a garage roof replacement will be within the range of £700 to £3600.

The first step a pro will take is to remove the existing roofing while also making sure that the timber structure is in a good condition. In the event whereby the timber is rotten, it will need to be replaced before the installation of a new roof. If the garage roof sheets needs a replacement, you’ll have to spend about £30 to £50 per each garage roof sheets. Individual plywood sheet has around 2.4m x 1.2m in measurement and whose price should also be included in the final cost.

The above information applies only to standard roofing for garage roofs with flat roofs being made of bitumen felt and asphalt. In recent times, this is no longer the case with several more options available. Today, EPDM and GRP fibreglass have rapidly become very popular amongst several homeowners in the country. It’s also important to note that modern roofing has greatly advanced over the years even though both EPDM garage roofs and GRP fibreglass garage roofs are way better and of more quality when compared to felt and asphalt roofs. And thanks to modern technology, modern garage roofing possesses a longer life expectancy and as result, are a lot costlier than the conventional ones.

For a medium size single garage (2.7m x 5.5m), the cost for a felt roof per square metre is between £40 to £70, while that of a fiberglass roof and an EPDM rubber roof is between £90 to £110 and £70 to £100 respectively.

The task of installing a tile roof can be quite a difficult one. Such a project takes a great deal of preparation, well before the actual tile installation is done. It does not matter if you are putting new ones or replacing your old tiles, understanding the proper technique and steps become crucial.

Remove old roofing (if applicable).

This is, on its own, a major job that can take days and require special tools. It takes some time, but be prepared to do it right.

Install battens (if applicable).

Battens may be needed to hold the tiles in place if the roof is having a steep slope. Usually made of metal or wood, battens are generally 1 inch thick and run horizontally along the roof.

You can find several varieties of tiles that has a hook or a lip allowing it to hang on the available battens. Apart from this, you can find several clips in the market which help to attach the tiles on to the batten.

Determining the spacing for battens can be done easily using two tiles. To prevent interlocking, a three inch overlap is required at the minimum, and a smaller amount of overhang should be left over the eaves. Keep this in mind when you determine the locations of the battens.

After you have determined the distance between the first two battens, measure the distance and set battens using that spacing up, making sure to double-check measurements as you go along.

• Install the tiles.

• You will need to begin with one side first, and then continue to move along the length of the roof.

• Cut tiles to fit tight spots.

• Tiles have to be cut precisely to overcome any obstacle like the chimney.

• Install the ridge tiles.

After completing the broad surfaces of the roof, special ridge tiles are required to cap the top.

Blisters are most common on membrane roofing systems. Lots of contractors will tell you that if there are no signs of further damage, there might not be any need to repair flat roof blisters. They form when pockets of air or water get trapped between layers of the roof’s membrane or between the membrane and the frame. When the sun is out and it heats the pockets expand and stretch the membrane. If you do want to repair your flat roof blisters, there are a few ways to go about it.

If you have a membrane flat roof, cut away the membrane until you reach a place where the membrane is still stuck tightly to the roof. Reapply as many new membrane layers as you cut away over the blistered area. You might even need to do more. To make sure your patch remains watertight, you’ll need to leave at least 6 inches around the edges of the blister.

If you’ve got a felt roof, you can cut an X shape through the blister. Peel back the triangles that you’ve made and let the timber frame dry for a while (so don’t do this when rain is forecast!). Then, coat the area with lots of bitumen adhesive and leave it to dry until it feels tacky. Then press down the triangles of felt firmly into the adhesive.

After that, you’ll need to add more bitumen adhesive to the cuts you made. If you’ve got any spare roofing felt, cut a square that’s about 100mm bigger than the cuts then lay this over the adhesive. If you’ve not got any felt, it’s cheaper to use a self-adhesive flashing strip. Once you’ve laid the strip or patch over, seal the edges with more bitumen adhesive.

Yes, it’s a dirty job, but every homeowner out there has got to do it! Your gutter needs to be free of dead leaves, birds’ nest and other debris as well as being through clean in order to perform its functions effectively. It’s just a part of the responsibilities that comes with owning a home. Dry leaves, tree branches and other materials build up in your gutters overtime especially during the dry summer and you won’t notice until the point where your gutters start overflowing during the first main rain of the season.

In the event whereby your dirty and clogged gutter is left unattended to, this can lead to several issues like a leaky gutter and mold, leaky roof and basements,cracked foundation, driveway and yard damage and several more which will definitely make you incur more unnecessary expenses. So the question is, how often should the gutters be cleaned? The answer is, it depends. According to several experts, gutters should be cleaned at least twice a year - which is once in the late spring and once in the late summer or early fall. However, there are a couple of factors that may make you have a rethink.

If you happen to have a pine tree growing above your house, it’ll be wise to consider inspecting your gutters every 3 months. This is because pine trees shed needles year-round and they usually have a lot of these needles to shed. In the situation whereby you’re located at a higher elevation, ice is will most likely be your greatest source of concern. Making sure that your gutters remain clean throughout the winter can be quite a headache, but damage to your roof cause by ice can be an even greater pain. Prevention is always better than cure.

Chimney liners are a very important component of the chimney, but the fact is most home and property owners either continue to overlook them or aren’t even aware of their existence. This is, however, quite understandable given the fact that they usually last a long period of time – more than 50 years. To ensure that they last that long, the question that arises is, do chimney liners need to be swept and cleaned? The short and simple answer to this question is yes, chimney liners definitely needs to be cleaned on a frequent basis. A chimney liner happens to be an essential part of your chimney. When it’s not cleaned, it tends to accumulate dust, soot and dirt which can give rise to a number of problems you’d rather want to avoid. Chimney liner are able to provide adequate protection to your flue but even at that the water, creosote and other contaminant build up can make the liner to deteriorate, and making it unsafe for usage. In other words, contrary to several belief, chimney liners do need the same amount of cleaning as chimneys without liners. Failure to sweep your chimney liners can give rise to the following problems:

• Creosote buildup. If your main source of fire is wood, then you’ll definitely have creosote present in your chimney. This is highly combustible and its buildup may lead to fire outbreak.
• Carbon monoxide poisoning. Carbon monoxide is said to be on the rise by NCBI and its primarily generated from heating systems which are terribly ventilated as a result of uncleaned or dirty chimneys.

It’s relatively simple to remove a Velux window, whether it’s Velux-branded or is another brand of roof window. Here is a breakdown of the steps you’ll need to take to remove a roof window:

1. Remove the sash (opening part) from the roof window frame. Usually there are screws in the hinges to loosen or a button to press and lift out.
2. Next, remove the tiles or slates from around the window frame along with the flashing.
3. Unscrew all the brackets around the window frame and lift out the frame.

It’s that simple! You can do all of this from inside your home – there's no need to climb on the roof. Removing the glass pane from a Velux window, for example if it has blown, is a more difficult job and should be left to a professional. It involves removing the sash from the roof window frame and then removing the surrounding parts of the sash to lift out the sealed unit. They will then place the new glazed unit into the sash frame before securing all the parts back onto the sash and fitting it back into the roof window frame.

One of the most popular choices for roofing materials are roof slates. There is a number of advantages that a roof slate has, hey can be aesthetically pleasing, they can also increase the potential selling value of the house and many more. Slate is a sturdy and resilient material that delivers waterproofing physical characteristics to a pitched roof. Unlike other roof materials which absorb water slates do not. Therefore, slate is the most resistant towards freezing and water damage.

Find out the pitch of your roof

Before beginning with the fitting procedure, you need to figure out the pitch of your roof. The roof pitch commands how much overlap is essential with each slate. This has been made a lot easier than the early days with the advancement of technology.

Find out the required overlap

Once you’ve found out the exact pitch of your roof accurately, take a look at the slate producer’s description. Each manufacturer will propose the obligatory overlap in order to form a firm and safe slate roof.

Roll out the roof membrane

Firstly, guarantee your joists or trusses are clean of any sheards or old nails that could harm the membrane. You will now have to roll the chosen roofing membrane along the roof trusses. It is always wise to start from one of the bottom corners and keep rolling it along to the other corner.

Secure the roof membrane

Once the membrane has been moved out, use thump nails to protect one edge. You will now have to pull the membrane taut and carefully fix it into position. Do this before adding any nails across the membrane at points of intersection with the trusses for extra stability.

Batten placement

This is done to find the proper assignment of the battens. For this, you will need two full-sized slates along with an under eaves slate. Carefully position the battens on the top of the roof on the top of the overlay. Make sure not to fix them down since it will be easier to move them around and make any adjustments.