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Tar and gravel flat roofs are popular because the gravel weighs down the surface of the roof so it doesn’t blow away and it also protects it from sun damage. The tar makes the roof watertight, so you won’t get any leaks. However, sometimes problems occur and you’ll get cracks and leaks. So how do you repair a tar and gravel flat roof?

If you notice leaking coming through your flat roof, try to find the source of the leak. Since water can travel easily, it might not be where you think it is. The first place to check is the flashing, then any parts of the roof with gravel missing. Once you’ve found the crack, sweep away any remaining gravel and clean the area.

Apply a primer to the area and allow it to dry. Then, apply a tar and gravel roof patch that you can get from most DIY shops. Patch 2-3 inches around the damaged area, creating layers, and ensuring that there aren’t any air bubbles or gaps. Then you should cover the entire patch with gravel.

Before you try to repair a tar and gravel flat roof yourself, consider how much of the roof needs repairing. Professionals often say that if cracks and faults make up 25% or more of the roof, then you should look to replace it. It might be tempting to try and replace your tar and gravel roof yourself, but it’s best left to the specialists. They will ensure that your new roof is watertight and strong enough to withstand sun damage and storms.

How To Replace Flat Roof Fascia

Whatever makes you decide to install your flat roof fascia by yourself and not a professional company, then you must have a clear idea of what to do and do it appropriately. If you lack proper training and experience, we’d recommend you employ a reliable professional to help with the task for the best results and save you some time and money. This step-by-step guide will give a clear insight on how to go about the replacement of your flat roof fascia.

The tools to be incorporated includes the fascia boards, table saw, plane, crimper, clamps, power nailer, compound saw and chalkline.

• Prepare and get all the necessary tools to complete the task before commencing as this would save you time from stopping and going back and forth looking for the next tool needed,

• Install the sheathing and board.

• Fix white fascias with at least 600mm centres ( a foiled fascia needs just 40mm centre) using a marine grade stainless steel plastic headed nails.

• Make a space of up to 10mm between the joints for possible building expansion, using super glue to secure the joints to just a side of the fascia.

• Place this directly on the fascia board’s top (if you’ll be installing ventilation) to create an air pathway.

• Take note that the type of roof to be installed will determine how you’ll have to install the fascia board. For instance, a hip roof permits you to attach the fascia board onto the roof in a quick fashion, whereas a gabled roof may need you to make markings on the board to achieve the right fit.

• Consider the depth of the fascia board as it also play a huge role in the installation of the fascia board. For instance, there’ll be additional weights on tiled roofs that will push up against the board. Therefore, if you do not get the appropriate amount of depth, it could eventually collapse.

Roofing is one of the most significant portions of your household. Not only does it protect the inhabitants from the elements, but it also plays a vital role in the architectural appeal. When people reflect of roofing, they consider various types of tile for the job.

Metal Tiles

When we talk of metal roofs, most of the people think of roofs made of metal panels which are joined together by joints or raised seams. This is often not the case as there are several numbers of obtainable metal roofing products.

Ceramic Tiles

Another popular choice of roofing material is ceramic. Clay tiles are incombustible and fairly sturdy, necessitating scarcer repairs or substitutions than asphalt roofs.

Concrete Tiles

For those that like the look of ceramic tiles, as well as their fire resistance, this may not be the choice, but those who want something a little tougher and less susceptible to cracking when having work done on the roof, there are the best tiles.

Bituminous Tiles

For those that want a lightweight, supple tile that’s easier to fit, there’s the bituminous tile. These types of tiles are made from cellulose fibre or using fibreglass allowing them to be flexible.

Polymer-Sand Tiles

A new-fangled substitute for ceramic tiles is the polymer-sand tile. Created from a combination of sand bound together with polymers, these are very rigid, sturdy tiles are shaped in a mould.

Copper Tile

Copper roofs can be a great choice for many due to their long lifespan. Copper tiles have the ability to last over a century before needing replacement.

Composite Tile

Another newer roofing tile is the composite. This is a multi-layered tile that is made using metal, acrylic and stone granules.

Stone Tiles

This is one of the oldest forms of roofing tiles that you can get out there. It is also one of the longest-lasting tiles on the market as well, with some roofs lasting well over 100 years.

Velux installers offer the Velux Active home kit. This provides an automated system to enhance your indoor living. With its sensor-based ventilation apparatus, the Velux active home kit’s smart sensors repeatedly monitor your home’s temperature, humidity and CO2 levels for its optimum healthy living standards.

Sensor-based ventilation
Velux Active tracks temperature, humidity and CO2-levels, and ventilates to keep your indoor climate nice and healthy.

Automatic heat protection
Velux Active automatically protects your home from excessive heat by closing your Velux Integra blinds, awnings and shutters on hot days.

Set personal preferences
Want to swap your alarm clock for a sunrise or air out while you’re at work? Customise your indoor climate with Velux Active.

Voice-control and smart speaker integration come standard with VELUX ACTIVE with NETATMO, enabling you to draw the shades or open the windows just by asking.

Chimney liners are a very important component of the chimney, but the fact is most home and property owners either continue to overlook them or aren’t even aware of their existence. This is, however, quite understandable given the fact that they usually last a long period of time – more than 50 years. To ensure that they last that long, the question that arises is, do chimney liners need to be swept and cleaned? The short and simple answer to this question is yes, chimney liners definitely needs to be cleaned on a frequent basis. A chimney liner happens to be an essential part of your chimney. When it’s not cleaned, it tends to accumulate dust, soot and dirt which can give rise to a number of problems you’d rather want to avoid. Chimney liner are able to provide adequate protection to your flue but even at that the water, creosote and other contaminant build up can make the liner to deteriorate, and making it unsafe for usage. In other words, contrary to several belief, chimney liners do need the same amount of cleaning as chimneys without liners. Failure to sweep your chimney liners can give rise to the following problems:

• Creosote buildup. If your main source of fire is wood, then you’ll definitely have creosote present in your chimney. This is highly combustible and its buildup may lead to fire outbreak.
• Carbon monoxide poisoning. Carbon monoxide is said to be on the rise by NCBI and its primarily generated from heating systems which are terribly ventilated as a result of uncleaned or dirty chimneys.

How to repair a hole in a flat roof depends on what material your flat roof is made from. If you have an asphalt, felt or EDPM rubber roof, the repairs are quite simple, whereas it’s a bit more tricky if you have a fibreglass flat roof. How to repair a hole in an asphalt flat roof If you’ve got a small hole in your asphalt flat roof, you might get away with using a paint-on fix from a tin. It’s best to use this as a temporary measure to tide you over until you can get in touch with a professional. If the hole is on the flashing, you can add heat-applied flashing tape to it, or use a patch of torched-on roofing felt. There are liquid systems you can use, but usually they’re only available to the trade. Repairing a hole in a felt flat roof It's a similar process to asphalt roofing if you want to repair a hole in a felt flat roof. Use a paint-on fix for a temporary solution, but the best way to repair a hole is to use a torched-on piece of roofing felt to cover the hole and make it watertight again. How to fix a hole in an EDPM rubber flat roof If the hole in a rubber flat roof is small, you may be able to get away with applying some lap sealant to the hole. Only use a small amount, as if you go for a more permanent repair later down the line all of this will need to be scraped off. You can also use a malleable piece of self-adhesive flashing – clean the area, add EDPM primer and stick the patch on from the centre outwards. Add sealant to the edges if you want to give it more water protection. How to fix pin holes in a fibreglass flat roof If you find pin holes in your fibreglass roof, it usually means there wasn’t enough resin used at installation. To repair the holes, you’ll need to sand down the entire roof back to the clear resin. Then clean the area with acetone and apply GRP roofing resin – the acetone ensures that the resin sticks. You might need two coats of resin to get rid of all the holes.

Yes, it’s a dirty job, but every homeowner out there has got to do it! Your gutter needs to be free of dead leaves, birds’ nest and other debris as well as being through clean in order to perform its functions effectively. It’s just a part of the responsibilities that comes with owning a home. Dry leaves, tree branches and other materials build up in your gutters overtime especially during the dry summer and you won’t notice until the point where your gutters start overflowing during the first main rain of the season.

In the event whereby your dirty and clogged gutter is left unattended to, this can lead to several issues like a leaky gutter and mold, leaky roof and basements,cracked foundation, driveway and yard damage and several more which will definitely make you incur more unnecessary expenses. So the question is, how often should the gutters be cleaned? The answer is, it depends. According to several experts, gutters should be cleaned at least twice a year - which is once in the late spring and once in the late summer or early fall. However, there are a couple of factors that may make you have a rethink.

If you happen to have a pine tree growing above your house, it’ll be wise to consider inspecting your gutters every 3 months. This is because pine trees shed needles year-round and they usually have a lot of these needles to shed. In the situation whereby you’re located at a higher elevation, ice is will most likely be your greatest source of concern. Making sure that your gutters remain clean throughout the winter can be quite a headache, but damage to your roof cause by ice can be an even greater pain. Prevention is always better than cure.

How you install commercial rubber roofing is similar to fitting it on a residential property, except that the area that’s covered is likely to be bigger. With commercial properties, you should always leave any maintenance and repair works to the professionals – whether you own or lease the property, you could invalidate any insurance if you try to install rubber roofing yourself. We’ll outline the steps roofers will take when installing rubber roofing on a commercial property.

Firstly, the installers will remove any existing coverings and clean and dry the surface thoroughly. This is vital in ensuring that the rubber will stick. They will then unwrap the EDPM rubber membrane and leave it to rest until it’s fully expanded. On a warm day this may take around half an hour.

Next, the roofers will work with half a sheet of rubber at a time and adhere it to the roof surface. They may use a water-based adhesive which they will spread onto the roof in sections, then roll the membrane onto the surface before moving onto the next section. If they’re using a bonded adhesive, they will apply it to both the roof and the rubber and leave it to dry until it’s tacky before extending the membrane.

Once the EDPM rubber is rolled out, the installers will brush the surface with a large broom to get rid of bubbles and provide a stronger bond. Then they will work of the edges, applying adhesive to roof and walls edges, sealing corners and creating watertight seals. They’ll also tidy up any excess membrane and seal all the trims.

As long as it’s installed correctly, your commercial rubber roofing should last you decades without any repairs needed. It’s always best to inspect your roof regularly to spot any damage before it becomes a bigger problem.