Wooden Decking in Penicuik

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Wooden Decking in Penicuik

Wooden decking is an increasingly fashionable option for creating outdoor seating areas in gardens. Due to the natural beauty of wood, they can be very elegant areas that can be used year round by using external heating and lighting. Wooden decking is frequently fitted in locations in front of patio or French doors where they can create a seamless transition between inside and outside spaces. Wooden decking can come in any size or shape to complement any area. Curved designs or large areas connected by pathways can produce an attractive effect. Wooden decking is reasonably quick to install and causes little disruption, especially when compared to other possibilities like patio or paving. It can even be installed over the top of a pre-existing patio. It is essential however to be sure that your wooden decking is structurally sound and capable of taking the weight of any furniture or plants that you want to use on the decking. There is a collection of types of wood that can be used in wooden decking. Usually decking is made of hardwood, but there are softwoods available that fulfil the durability requirements. As hardwood decking will need maintenance, which usually consists of annual cleaning and staining for weather proofing, composite woods have become popular for use in wooden decking as they are more robust and require far less maintenance.

Average Wooden decking cost in Penicuik

The typical cost of Wooden decking is £1500. Costs can change based upon the materials and the firm hired. The upper price range can be as high as £1725. The material costs are commonly approximately £375

Average price per Wooden decking job in 2026

Avg. price low

Avg. price low
£1,125

Avg. price

Avg. price
£1,500

Avg. price high

Avg. price high
£1,725

£1900

£1425

£950

£475

£0

Prices based on actual Wooden decking costs for Penicuik, as reported by local LeadsDoWork members.

Wooden decking installation cost in Penicuik 2026

Labour cost £1,050
Material cost £375
Waste removal £75
Time frame: 1-4 days
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Penicuik

On the A701 lies Penicuik (pronounced 'Pennycook no matter its spelling), a town in Midlothian, Scotland with a population of around 15,700. Positioned between Edinburgh and Peebles, the settlement was developed as a planned village in 1770 by Sir James Clerk of Penicuik, coming to be a burgh in 1867. Its initial local industry were its famous paper mills, with the last of these winding up in 2004. The town name, Penicuik, is derived from 'Pen Y Cog', meaning specifically, 'Hill of the Cuckoo' in Ancient British. The small town does have its global links, and is twinned with the town of L'îsle-sur-la-Sourge in France. The very first instance of the reference of the town was in 1296. Thomas Rymer's text Foedera points to a 'Walter Edgar a person Penicok south of Edenburgh', and is exactly what the town's name evolved from and into today's spelling. Pennycook, another step on the ladder of Penicuik's spelling development, appears on John Adair's map from 1862. However, in the background of the town itself, full expansion commenced when the Cowan family arrived around 1770, and brought the business of their paper mill. This brought the requirement for houses for employees, resulting in general population increasing to 1,700 by 1800. Penicuik was also used as the site of a prison camp for soldiers from the French Napoleonic wars, however in our present day, it is currently the site of a housing development. Nevertheless, a monolith dated back to 1830 honours the 309 detainees who died there throughout the years 1811-1814. For all your house upgrades, make sure to make use of reputable professionals in Penicuik to make certain of quality.

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Wooden decking pros in Penicuik

JR Johnstone Roofing & Building

110 review(s)
Based: in Falkirk, FK2 9FD

Latest review

Jonathan F., FK8
4

Garden Decking in Stirling

Company failed to attend the appointment twice and then did not get in touch to reschedule. Based on this I would not us...

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FAQs

How to lay decking?
Laying simple, ground-level decking may sound intimidating, but it doesn’t have to be. With careful planning and preparation, you can lay decking that you’ll be proud to show off to neighbours, family and friends. Here are a few tips to get you started. Plan carefully Draw out a plan, to scale, on paper. This will help you to know how many boards you’ll need and ensure that you don’t end up having to cut anything to fit. Prepare the area Measure out the site according to your plan and hammer a peg into each corner, then tie string around each peg to help you see what you’re working with. If you’re not laying on existing slabs, dig into the ground, lifting out turf if it’s there, and check that the site is level. Then add concrete slabs for more stability or lay weed-control fabric over the ground and cover with gravel to further prevent weed growth. Build your sub-frame Since a lot of people ask this, we’ve got a more detailed guide in the FAQ below. Lay your deck boards
  1. Start in one corner of the sub-frame and position the first board across the inner joists. You want the deck board in the opposite direction to the inner joists, ensuring that it’s flush with the frame. Position any end-to-end joins between the deck boards halfway across an inner joist so you can screw both boards into the joist for stability. Make sure you keep a gap of between 5-8mm to allow for expansion of the wood.
  2. Begin to screw your deck boards to the joists. You’ll need to secure the deck board to every joist is covers along your deck frame. Use two screws for every joist. Mark where you’re going to add your screws, ensuring that they are at least 15mm from the end of the board and 20mm from the outside edges. Drill pilot holes for the screws, being careful to only drill through the deck board and not the joist. Then screw the decking screws into the holes.
  3. Continue to screw in the deck boards, ensuring you leave the correct expansion gap. You can stagger the deck board joins across the deck for more strength.
  4. Sand down any cut ends if you need to before applying decking preserver to protect the timber from rotting.
Although this is a simplified set of instructions, it’s enough for you to see whether you want to attempt to lay decking yourself – and if you don’t, you can get in touch with professionals who will be happy to give you a quote.

How to lay decking on uneven ground?
There are two ways to lay decking on uneven ground. We’ve explained how to build a raised deck in our FAQ ‘How to build a raised deck’ above, and that’s great for uneven ground or sloped gardens. But there’s another way that you can lay decking on uneven ground if you don’t want a raised deck: you can create a level supporting base. We’ll go through the basics here. Materials you’ll need
  • Paving slabs – old or cheap ones are fine
  • Timber for the frame and legs
  • Type 1 MOT hardcore
How to lay decking on uneven ground
  1. Mark out the area as we explain in ‘How to lay decking’. Then, dig to 200mm below where you want to surface of the decking to be.
  2. Add a 50mm layer of hardcore and make sure it’s compact.
  3. Build the decking sub-frame as we describe in ‘How to build a deck frame’.
  4. Lay out paving slabs along the edges and in the centre of the area. This will help to spread the weight of the decking.
  5. Set the decking frame on the slabs, checking for high or low points and adding off-cuts of timber where needed. Don’t forget to sand and seal these off-cuts with decking preservative.
  6. Add your joists and then the deck boards, leaving the recommended gaps of expansion of between 5-8mm.
Building your decking on top of paving slabs is a good way to get it level, but you still may not be able to get as good a finish as if a professional did it. If you’re in any doubt, get in contact with some decking specialists and see what they would recommend.
How to make steps for a deck?
Unless you built a ground-level deck, you’re going to need steps to go with it. Check Building Regulations to see if you need to install handrails as well. It’s good practice to:
  • Have a step tread width of 900mm – if you don’t want them that wide, they should be no less than 760mm
  • Add a central step riser to stairs wider than 900mm to prevent them buckling
  • Add a step depth (the vertical distance between each step) of between 150 and 180mm if building your own riser, so the steps are at a comfortable depth
Getting started To build your steps for the deck, you’ll need:
  • Step treads (the actual step themselves)
  • Step risers
  • Coach screws
  • Deck screws
  • Saw
  • Drill
Make the steps for your deck
  1. Make sure the ground where you want to put your steps is level and firm. If it’s not, consider laying concrete or paving slabs to provide a secure surface for your steps to sit so they don’t sink.
  2. Grab some joist off-cuts and cut them to the same width as your step treads. Attach them to the step risers at the top and bottom using countersunk coach screws.
  3. Place the steps against the sub-frame of the deck; if you’ve put slabs down for support, make sure the steps sit in the middle of them. The longest edge of the stair riser should be on the slabs, and the short edge against the deck. Drill pilot holes through the step and sub-frame joist, then screw the step to the sub-frame with more coach screws.
  4. After drilling pilot holes, screw the treads into the risers at each end with deck screws.
  5. If you don’t want gaps between each stair, you can add joist off-cuts or deck boards. Measure the height and depth of the gap, then screw the off-cut or board into the step riser with two screws at each end.
How much decking do I need?
How much decking you need will – of course – depend on how big you plan your deck to be. There is an equation to help you work out how many deck boards you need. It’s a little complicated until you’ve been shown how it works, but once you know how to do it it’s easy to work out how much decking you need for any project. The equation takes into account the recommended 10% wastage and includes the expansion gaps that are required, which is between 5-8mm along the length of the deck boards (EGL, or expansion gap length) and 3mm along the ends of the deck boards (EGW, or expansion gap width) for timber. It also assumes you’re laying your decking horizontally, as if you’re looking for a diagonal or chevron design you’ll need more deck boards. Let’s go through an example, assuming you have a 10m x 6m area that you want to cover with decking made from timber boards that are 2.4m long and 144mm wide. We’ll use the EGL of 5mm and EGW of 3mm.
  1. Calculate the surface area for your decking Multiply the length (L) of your decking area by the width (W): L x W = Decking Surface Area (DSA) in m2 10 x 6 = 60m2
  2. Work out the coverage of your deck boards Add your deck board width (DBW) to the expansion gap length (EGL), then add the deck board length (DBL) to the expansion gap width (EGW). Then multiply these numbers. (DBW + EGL) x (DBL + EGW) = Single Board Coverage (SBC) 0.144m + 0.005m = 0.149m 2.4m + 0.003m = 2.403m 0.149 x 2.403 = 0.358m2
  3. Calculate the number of deck boards you need Multiply the SBC by 1.1 to allow for 10% wastage. Then, divide the DSA by the SBC. DSA / SCB x 1.1 = Total number of boards required 60m2 / 0.358m2 x 1.1 = 184.36 boards – so round up to 185 so you’re not left short.
If that all seems a bit complicated for you, let a professional do the maths – they will be able to give you an idea of how much decking you’ll need in no time.
Wooden decking

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