Wooden Decking in Fivemiletown
Compare Wooden Decking Prices in Fivemiletown
Wooden Decking in Fivemiletown
Wooden decking is an increasingly fashionable choice for creating outdoor seating areas in gardens. Due to the natural beauty of wood, they can be very elegant areas that can be used year round by using additional heating and illumination. Wooden decking is commonly installed in locations in front of patio or French doors where they can create a smooth transition between interior and exterior spaces. Wooden decking can come in any size or shape to accommodate any area. Curved designs or large areas joined by pathways can produce an attractive effect. Wooden decking is relatively easy to install and causes little disruption, particularly in comparison to alternate options like patio or paving. It could even be installed over the top of a pre-existing patio. It is essential however to make sure that your wooden decking is structurally sound and able to take the weight of any furniture or plants that you want to use on the decking. There is a variety of species of wood that can be used in wooden decking. Generally decking is constructed from hardwood, but there are softwoods available that fulfil the durability requirements. As hardwood decking will need maintenance, which commonly requires yearly cleaning and staining for weather proofing, composite woods are becoming popular for use in wooden decking because they are more robust and require much less maintenance.
Average Wooden decking cost in Fivemiletown
The typical cost of Wooden decking is £1500. Costs can change based upon the materials and the firm hired. The upper price range can be as high as £1725. The material costs are commonly approximately £375
Average price per Wooden decking job in 2025
Avg. price low | Avg. price low |
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Avg. price | Avg. price |
Avg. price high | Avg. price high |
£1900
£1425
£950
£475
£0
Wooden decking installation cost in Fivemiletown 2025
Labour cost | £1,050 | |
Material cost | £375 | |
Waste removal | £75 |
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FAQs
- Decking joists
- Coach screws
- Coach bolts
- Combi drill
- Socket set
- A saw suitable for your project and the thickness of the timber
- Pencil
- Decking preservative
- Sandpaper or sander
- Measure your deck frame and cut to size if necessary.
- Make 2 pencil marks on each end of the frame’s 2 outer joists to mark where the coach screws will go. They need to align with the centre of the adjoining outer joist. Then, use a flat wood drill bit to drill recesses into each mark. Make them the same depth of the screws that your using’s head and wide enough for a ratchet or socket to tighten them.
- Using a thinner drill bit, line up the outer joists and drill a pilot hole through the middle of the recess. These pilot holes act as a guide for the screws and stops them from splitting the wood.
- Fit the coach screws with either a drill driver or socket and ratchet.
- Repeat the process for the inner joists once you’ve assembled the outer frame.
- Calculate the surface area for your decking Multiply the length (L) of your decking area by the width (W): L x W = Decking Surface Area (DSA) in m2 10 x 6 = 60m2
- Work out the coverage of your deck boards Add your deck board width (DBW) to the expansion gap length (EGL), then add the deck board length (DBL) to the expansion gap width (EGW). Then multiply these numbers. (DBW + EGL) x (DBL + EGW) = Single Board Coverage (SBC) 0.144m + 0.005m = 0.149m 2.4m + 0.003m = 2.403m 0.149 x 2.403 = 0.358m2
- Calculate the number of deck boards you need Multiply the SBC by 1.1 to allow for 10% wastage. Then, divide the DSA by the SBC. DSA / SCB x 1.1 = Total number of boards required 60m2 / 0.358m2 x 1.1 = 184.36 boards – so round up to 185 so you’re not left short.
- Place a post in the corner of the frame you created with the pegs and string. Measure and mark out 100mm from each side.
- Dig out this soil to a depth of 700mm (watch out for cables or pipes). You should have a 300 x 300mm hole. Repeat for the other 3 corners.
- Using a brick bolster, split a concrete block in two. Put a section of the block in each hole.
- Get a length of post longer than you need and place one in each hole. You can cut it down later.
- Create props on each post to hold them in place until you’re ready to add a cement mix. Check that they’re level. When you’re happy that they are, secure them in place with a concrete mix, making sure you create a slope in the concrete so that rainwater runs away from each post. When the concrete is set, remove the props.
- Create a string line around each corner post and find the centre point between each. Place a timber batten at each point, ensuring that they’re not spaced any more than 1500mm apart.
- Working from the corner where the deck will be at its highest above ground level, measure and mark on the post where the highest part of the frame will be.
- Measure from the far side of one post to the opposite and cut sections of joist to size. Line up a piece of joist with the mark you made and temporarily secure it. Factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off.
- Secure the frame to the other corner post, ensuring it’s at the right level. Do this for every side of the outer frame.
- Using 100mm coach screws with washers hanging on the end, secure each end of the four sections of frame.
- Mark out where the centre of the support posts will be and secure all of these posts to the frame, except the centre post.
- Add your central support joists. These should run in the same direction as the deck boards will run. You’ll need to measure from the inside of the frame on one side to the inside of the frame on the opposite side. Attach the joist in the same way as you did for the other posts. Repeat so the centre post is in between two sections of frame and secure the posts with concrete.
- Trim down all the posts to the correct height using a saw.
- Add your weed-control fabric and weigh down with gravel across the entire area.
- Measure 400mm from the centre of the outer frame and mark a line. This will be where the first joist is positioned. Repeat at 400mm intervals down the length of the frame – if the last one will be more than 400mm, add another joist to create enough support.
- Attach a joist hanger to each end of the joist.
- Place the joist in position so the centre lines up with the 400mm spacer mark.
- Secure using external grade screws once you’re happy that the joist is flush with the frame.

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