Wooden Decking in Laurencekirk

Compare Wooden Decking Prices in Laurencekirk

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Wooden Decking in Laurencekirk

Wooden decking is an increasingly prevalent choice for providing outdoor seating areas in gardens. Due to the natural beauty of wood, they can be very beautiful areas that can be used year round by adding additional heating and lighting. Wooden decking is generally fitted in locations in front of patio or French doors where they can create a smooth transition between inside and outside spaces. Wooden decking is available in any size or shape to match any area. Curved designs or large areas linked by pathways can create an impressive effect. Wooden decking is reasonably easy to install and causes little disruption, especially when compared to alternate options like patio or paving. It could even be installed over the top of a pre-existing patio. It is vital however to be sure that your wooden decking is structurally sound and capable of taking the weight of any furniture or plants that you want to use on the decking. There is a collection of varieties of wood that can be used in wooden decking. Often decking is constructed from hardwood, but there are softwoods available that fulfil the durability requirements. As hardwood decking will demand maintenance, which commonly consists of annual cleaning and staining for weather proofing, composite woods have become more popular for use in wooden decking because they are more robust and require much less maintenance.

Average Wooden decking cost in Laurencekirk

The typical cost of Wooden decking is £1500. Costs can change based upon the materials and the firm hired. The upper price range can be as high as £1725. The material costs are commonly approximately £375

Average price per Wooden decking job in 2026

Avg. price low

Avg. price low
£1,125
Avg. price

Avg. price
£1,500
Avg. price high

Avg. price high
£1,725

£1900

£1425

£950

£475

£0

Prices based on actual Wooden decking costs for Laurencekirk, as reported by local LeadsDoWork members.

Wooden decking installation cost in Laurencekirk 2026

Labour cost £1,050
Material cost £375
Waste removal £75
Time frame: 1-4 days

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Wooden decking Projects in Laurencekirk in June 2026

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Requests for Wooden decking quotations in Laurencekirk in June 2026. 0% change from May 2026.

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Requests for Wooden decking quotations in Aberdeenshire in June 2026. 0% change from May 2026.

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Wooden decking searches in cities and towns near Laurencekirk June 2026

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Laurencekirk

Laurencekirk is a village in the historic county of Kincardineshire, Scotland, simply off the A90 Dundee to Aberdeen main road, which bypassed it in 1985. It is provided as part of Aberdeenshire. It is the largest settlement in the Howe o' the Mearns location and also houses the neighborhood senior high school; Mearns Academy, which was awarded the Charter Mark in 2003. Its old name was Conveth, an anglification of the Gaelic Coinmheadh, referring to a commitment to give cost-free food as well as board to passing troops. Laurencekirk is in the valley between the Hill of Garvock as well as the Cairn O' Mount. The renowned landmark of the Johnston Tower can be seen on the height of the Garvock. Laurencekirk was, in the past, understood for making snuff boxes with a special kind of impermeable joint (referred to as a "Laurencekirk joint") invented by James Sandy. Laurencekirk Golf Club (now obsolete) initially appeared in the very early 1900s. The club closed at the time of WW2. Lewis Grassic Gibbon composed much regarding The Mearns and the bordering area in his publication Sunset Song. A tribute centre can be seen at Arbuthnott a few miles from Laurencekirk. Fred Urquhart worked on the land at Laurencekirk in the Second World War, and his narratives use his observations of rural life right here.

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FAQs

How to fit composite decking?
Fitting composite decking is similar to installing timber decking, but there are some small differences in terms of the gaps you need to leave between boards and the screws you use. We’ll go through a quick guide to show you the process involved in fitting composite decking so you can decide whether it’s something you want to do yourself. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to our instructions in the previous FAQs – or you can use an existing patio or concrete base if you have one. Measure and mark out the area using chalk (if using an existing base). Assemble the decking frame Build the outer frame as we show in our FAQs above; if the area you have planned is longer than your joists, you’ll need to join them together. When you’ve built the frame and it’s secure, ensure that it’s at the right level for water runoff and add risers, slabs or treated off-cuts of timber at 500mm intervals if you need to. Add joists The spacing of your joists will depend on the type of design you have chosen for your composite decking. If you’re laying arched boards horizontally, you’ll need to space the joists 300mm apart. Lay your composite decking boards
  1. If you’ve not got an overhang or it’s a fixed deck, fit starter clips along the outside edge of the frame and secure with screws provided with the composite decking. If you are working with an overhang, put the first board into position not exceeding 25mm. If you’re adding a fascia, put an off-cut of board under the overhang so you know it’ll be flush with the fascia.
  2. Pre-drill all fixing points, measuring in 30mm from the edge of the board. Secure the board to the joist below with composite decking screws.
  3. Slide a hidden fastener clip in so it sits within the groove of the deck board. It needs to be in the centre of the joist to keep the boards secure and ensure an expansion gap of 6mm. Tighten the clips until just tight, and repeat so there’s a clip at every joist.
  4. Add the next board, ensuring that the fastener clips sit within the groove – make sure you don’t force it. Repeat step 3.
  5. Continue steps 3 and 4 until you’re at the final board, which you should secure in the same way as you did the first.
Add a fascia board If you’re adding a fascia, measure in 40mm from each end and add two guide marks: one at 40mm from the top and the other at 40mm from the bottom. Connect the marks, then mark at 300mm intervals down the board. Drill pilot holes, then put the fascia board into position. You need to make sure that there’s a 40mm ventilation gap between the bottom of the fascia and the ground. Ask someone to hold the board level until you’ve finished securing it with composite decking screws; you can get colour-matched ones so they don’t look unsightly at the end of your decking. Not so sure you want to carry out such a big project yourself? Get quotes from decking pros who will be able to fit composite decking much more quickly and easily.
How to make steps for a deck?
Unless you built a ground-level deck, you’re going to need steps to go with it. Check Building Regulations to see if you need to install handrails as well. It’s good practice to:
  • Have a step tread width of 900mm – if you don’t want them that wide, they should be no less than 760mm
  • Add a central step riser to stairs wider than 900mm to prevent them buckling
  • Add a step depth (the vertical distance between each step) of between 150 and 180mm if building your own riser, so the steps are at a comfortable depth
Getting started To build your steps for the deck, you’ll need:
  • Step treads (the actual step themselves)
  • Step risers
  • Coach screws
  • Deck screws
  • Saw
  • Drill
Make the steps for your deck
  1. Make sure the ground where you want to put your steps is level and firm. If it’s not, consider laying concrete or paving slabs to provide a secure surface for your steps to sit so they don’t sink.
  2. Grab some joist off-cuts and cut them to the same width as your step treads. Attach them to the step risers at the top and bottom using countersunk coach screws.
  3. Place the steps against the sub-frame of the deck; if you’ve put slabs down for support, make sure the steps sit in the middle of them. The longest edge of the stair riser should be on the slabs, and the short edge against the deck. Drill pilot holes through the step and sub-frame joist, then screw the step to the sub-frame with more coach screws.
  4. After drilling pilot holes, screw the treads into the risers at each end with deck screws.
  5. If you don’t want gaps between each stair, you can add joist off-cuts or deck boards. Measure the height and depth of the gap, then screw the off-cut or board into the step riser with two screws at each end.
Will I need safety barriers or balustrades for my decking?

If your deck isn’t going to be flat to the ground, it’s a good idea to have some kind of balustrade to avoid any tripping. If the gap between the deck and the ground is less than 600mm, use a 900mm balustrade. If it’s higher than 600mm, the balustrade should be 1100mm tall.

How much decking do I need?
How much decking you need will – of course – depend on how big you plan your deck to be. There is an equation to help you work out how many deck boards you need. It’s a little complicated until you’ve been shown how it works, but once you know how to do it it’s easy to work out how much decking you need for any project. The equation takes into account the recommended 10% wastage and includes the expansion gaps that are required, which is between 5-8mm along the length of the deck boards (EGL, or expansion gap length) and 3mm along the ends of the deck boards (EGW, or expansion gap width) for timber. It also assumes you’re laying your decking horizontally, as if you’re looking for a diagonal or chevron design you’ll need more deck boards. Let’s go through an example, assuming you have a 10m x 6m area that you want to cover with decking made from timber boards that are 2.4m long and 144mm wide. We’ll use the EGL of 5mm and EGW of 3mm.
  1. Calculate the surface area for your decking Multiply the length (L) of your decking area by the width (W): L x W = Decking Surface Area (DSA) in m2 10 x 6 = 60m2
  2. Work out the coverage of your deck boards Add your deck board width (DBW) to the expansion gap length (EGL), then add the deck board length (DBL) to the expansion gap width (EGW). Then multiply these numbers. (DBW + EGL) x (DBL + EGW) = Single Board Coverage (SBC) 0.144m + 0.005m = 0.149m 2.4m + 0.003m = 2.403m 0.149 x 2.403 = 0.358m2
  3. Calculate the number of deck boards you need Multiply the SBC by 1.1 to allow for 10% wastage. Then, divide the DSA by the SBC. DSA / SCB x 1.1 = Total number of boards required 60m2 / 0.358m2 x 1.1 = 184.36 boards – so round up to 185 so you’re not left short.
If that all seems a bit complicated for you, let a professional do the maths – they will be able to give you an idea of how much decking you’ll need in no time.
Wooden decking

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Laurencekirk Wooden decking installers are rated 4.2 out of 5 based on 2 reviews of 4 pros.
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