How to build a raised deck?

Building a raised deck will take some time and is trickier than laying standard decking at ground level, but if you want to build decking on a slope or uneven ground it’s the best way to do it. If you do your research and follow instructions, you and a friend or family member can build a raised deck over a few days. Here’s a simplified guide of the steps you’ll need to take. Plan carefully It’s best to plan your raised deck by drawing it to scale on paper before you go and get supplies. This will help avoid wastage and making more cuts to timber than necessary. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to the instructions we give in the FAQ ‘How to lay decking’. However, because you’re building a raised deck, you’ll need to add posts: Place a post in the corner of the frame you created with the pegs and string. Measure and mark out 100mm from each side. Dig out this soil to a depth of 700mm (watch out for cables or pipes). You should have a 300 x 300mm hole. Repeat for the other 3 corners. Using a brick bolster, split a concrete block in two. Put a section of the block in each hole. Get a length of post longer than you need and place one in each hole. You can cut it down later. Create props on each post to hold them in place until you’re ready to add a cement mix. Check that they’re level. When you’re happy that they are, secure them in place with a concrete mix, making sure you create a slope in the concrete so that rainwater runs away from each post. When the concrete is set, remove the props. Create a string line around each corner post and find the centre point between each. Place a timber batten at each point, ensuring that they’re not spaced any more than 1500mm apart. Make the outer frame Working from the corner where the deck will be at its highest above ground level, measure and mark on the post where the highest part of the frame will be. Measure from the far side of one post to the opposite and cut sections of joist to size. Line up a piece of joist with the mark you made and temporarily secure it. Factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off. Secure the frame to the other corner post, ensuring it’s at the right level. Do this for every side of the outer frame. Using 100mm coach screws with washers hanging on the end, secure each end of the four sections of frame. Mark out where the centre of the support posts will be and secure all of these posts to the frame, except the centre post. Add your central support joists. These should run in the same direction as the deck boards will run. You’ll need to measure from the inside of the frame on one side to the inside of the frame on the opposite side. Attach the joist in the same way as you did for the other posts. Repeat so the centre post is in between two sections of frame and secure the posts with concrete. Trim down all the posts to the correct height using a saw. Add your weed-control fabric and weigh down with gravel across the entire area. Add your joists Measure 400mm from the centre of the outer frame and mark a line. This will be where the first joist is positioned. Repeat at 400mm intervals down the length of the frame – if the last one will be more than 400mm, add another joist to create enough support. Attach a joist hanger to each end of the joist. Place the joist in position so the centre lines up with the 400mm spacer mark. Secure using external grade screws once you’re happy that the joist is flush with the frame. Lay your decking boards Refer to our FAQ on how to lay decking to see how you should attach your decking boards. Remember: Always treat cut ends and pilot holes with decking preservative to keep your decking in good condition for as long as possible. Building a raised deck isn’t a straightforward task. If you’d rather leave it to the professionals, get a range of quotes to help you get the best price and a high quality finish.

Wooden Decking in Kirriemuir and local area

Wooden Decking in Kirriemuir

Wooden decking is an increasingly fashionable option for creating outdoor seating areas in gardens. Due to the natural beauty of wood, they can be very beautiful spaces that can be used year round by installing additional heating and light. Wooden decking is usually installed in locations in front of patio or French doors where they can create a smooth transition between interior and exterior spaces. Wooden decking can come in any size or shape to accommodate any area. Curved designs or large areas linked by pathways can produce an attractive effect. Wooden decking is fairly quick to install and causes minimal disruption, particularly when compared to alternate options like patio or paving. It could even be installed over the top of a pre-existing patio. It is crucial however to make certain that your wooden decking is structurally sound and capable of taking the weight of any furniture or plants that you would like to use on the decking. There is a variety of species of wood that can be used in wooden decking. Usually decking is constructed from hardwood, but there are softwoods available that fulfil the durability specifications. As hardwood decking will demand maintenance, which commonly requires yearly cleaning and staining for weather proofing, composite woods are becoming popular for use in wooden decking because they are more robust and require far less maintenance.

Avg. price low	Avg. price low £1,125
Avg. price	Avg. price £1,500
Avg. price high	Avg. price high £1,725

Avg. price low

Avg. price low
£1,125

Avg. price

Avg. price
£1,500

Avg. price high

Avg. price high
£1,725

Building a simple deck frame, or decking subframe, that you’re laying on level ground is easy if you take time to prepare and get all the things you need. We’ll go through the steps on how to build a deck frame here. Tools and equipment To get building your deck frame, you’ll need:

Decking joists
Coach screws
Coach bolts
Combi drill
Socket set
A saw suitable for your project and the thickness of the timber
Pencil
Decking preservative
Sandpaper or sander

Build your subframe

Measure your deck frame and cut to size if necessary.
Make 2 pencil marks on each end of the frame’s 2 outer joists to mark where the coach screws will go. They need to align with the centre of the adjoining outer joist. Then, use a flat wood drill bit to drill recesses into each mark. Make them the same depth of the screws that your using’s head and wide enough for a ratchet or socket to tighten them.
Using a thinner drill bit, line up the outer joists and drill a pilot hole through the middle of the recess. These pilot holes act as a guide for the screws and stops them from splitting the wood.
Fit the coach screws with either a drill driver or socket and ratchet.
Repeat the process for the inner joists once you’ve assembled the outer frame.

IMPORTANT: While you’re building your deck frame and the decking itself, remember to cover all pilot holes and ends of timber in decking preservative to ensure that your decking remains structurally sound for as long as possible. Though relatively simple, building a deck frame and the decking will take some time. It would be much quicker and easier to get a professional in to do it, who could represent more value for money.

Building a raised deck will take some time and is trickier than laying standard decking at ground level, but if you want to build decking on a slope or uneven ground it’s the best way to do it. If you do your research and follow instructions, you and a friend or family member can build a raised deck over a few days. Here’s a simplified guide of the steps you’ll need to take. Plan carefully It’s best to plan your raised deck by drawing it to scale on paper before you go and get supplies. This will help avoid wastage and making more cuts to timber than necessary. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to the instructions we give in the FAQ ‘How to lay decking’. However, because you’re building a raised deck, you’ll need to add posts:

Place a post in the corner of the frame you created with the pegs and string. Measure and mark out 100mm from each side.
Dig out this soil to a depth of 700mm (watch out for cables or pipes). You should have a 300 x 300mm hole. Repeat for the other 3 corners.
Using a brick bolster, split a concrete block in two. Put a section of the block in each hole.
Get a length of post longer than you need and place one in each hole. You can cut it down later.
Create props on each post to hold them in place until you’re ready to add a cement mix. Check that they’re level. When you’re happy that they are, secure them in place with a concrete mix, making sure you create a slope in the concrete so that rainwater runs away from each post. When the concrete is set, remove the props.
Create a string line around each corner post and find the centre point between each. Place a timber batten at each point, ensuring that they’re not spaced any more than 1500mm apart.

Make the outer frame

Working from the corner where the deck will be at its highest above ground level, measure and mark on the post where the highest part of the frame will be.
Measure from the far side of one post to the opposite and cut sections of joist to size. Line up a piece of joist with the mark you made and temporarily secure it. Factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off.
Secure the frame to the other corner post, ensuring it’s at the right level. Do this for every side of the outer frame.
Using 100mm coach screws with washers hanging on the end, secure each end of the four sections of frame.
Mark out where the centre of the support posts will be and secure all of these posts to the frame, except the centre post.
Add your central support joists. These should run in the same direction as the deck boards will run. You’ll need to measure from the inside of the frame on one side to the inside of the frame on the opposite side. Attach the joist in the same way as you did for the other posts. Repeat so the centre post is in between two sections of frame and secure the posts with concrete.
Trim down all the posts to the correct height using a saw.
Add your weed-control fabric and weigh down with gravel across the entire area.

Add your joists

Measure 400mm from the centre of the outer frame and mark a line. This will be where the first joist is positioned. Repeat at 400mm intervals down the length of the frame – if the last one will be more than 400mm, add another joist to create enough support.
Attach a joist hanger to each end of the joist.
Place the joist in position so the centre lines up with the 400mm spacer mark.
Secure using external grade screws once you’re happy that the joist is flush with the frame.

Lay your decking boards Refer to our FAQ on how to lay decking to see how you should attach your decking boards. Remember: Always treat cut ends and pilot holes with decking preservative to keep your decking in good condition for as long as possible. Building a raised deck isn’t a straightforward task. If you’d rather leave it to the professionals, get a range of quotes to help you get the best price and a high quality finish.

If your deck isn’t going to be flat to the ground, it’s a good idea to have some kind of balustrade to avoid any tripping. If the gap between the deck and the ground is less than 600mm, use a 900mm balustrade. If it’s higher than 600mm, the balustrade should be 1100mm tall.

Yes, although you should make sure that the terrace or decking is able to support the weight of a hot tub. Usually, you will need to have a structural survey carried out on the area. Seek the advise of a hot tub retailer or installer about the logistics of installing one at your property.

	Labour cost	£1,050
	Material cost	£375
	Waste removal	£75

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