Plasterboard dry lining
London - E13
Enquiry from: Victorino P
Start Date: Immediate
Room partitioing and wood flooring repairs
Internal or partition walls can be moved or knocked down in your home, which can transform the area design and establish a larger open plan room design for a ample living space or a kitchen diner. When moving or knocking through internal walls, it's important to understand both the type of internal wall that it is, and whether or not it's a load bearing wall. Internal walls may be brick or block partitions, timber stud partitions, or even prefabricated wall panels. There are no shortcuts when it comes to ascertaining whether a wall is load bearing or not, it is advisable to engage the services of a structural engineer if you are not sure or are not able to view original plans for your property. Load bearing walls can be relocated, but this will often be more costly and involves using additional load bearing methods, for example steel lintels. Moving or knocking through internal walls will often entail demolition of the pre-existing wall, reconstructing or repairing the new walls, replastering and moving electrics. It could additionally necessitate modifications to the floor, as in some cases the floors between rooms may not be completely level, and knocking through interior walls can reveal this. Generally moving interior walls won't require planning permission, but you will need to adhere to building regulations for insulation and sound proofing. Consulting a structural engineer will ensure that any interior wall changes that you intend on doing will keep your home structurally sound.
The average cost of Plasterboard dry lining is £850. Costs vary based upon the materials and the tradesman hired. The upper price range can be as high as £977.5. The material costs are in most cases around £212.5
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| Labour cost | £595 | |
| Material cost | £213 | |
| Waste removal | £43 |
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Balham is a district in south London in the London Borough of Wandsworth. The settlement appears within the Domesday Book as Belgeham. Bal means ‘rounded enclosure’ and ham a homestead, village or river enclosure. The location has been settled since Saxon times, and Balham Hill and Balham High Road follow the line of the Roman road Stane Street to Chichester.
Balham encompasses the A24 north of Tooting Bec along with the roads coming off it. The southern area of Balham which is near Tooting Bec includes a block of 1930s Art Deco flats named Du Cane Court. There is also the Heaver Estate which can be found in Tooting, which comprises substantial houses. It was constructed inside the grounds of the old Bedford Hill House by local Victorian builder Alfred Heaver.
Balham lies among 4 south London commons, namely Clapham Common to the north, Wandsworth Common towards the west, Tooting Graveney Common to the south along with the connecting Tooting Bec to the east.
During WWII, on 14th October 1940, Balham tube station was badly affected by air raids on London. Families sheltered in the tube station during the raids, however a bomb fell in the High Road and through the roof of the Underground station, bursting a water and gas mains and killing around 64 individuals. Ian McEwan describes the event as part of his novel ‘Atonement’, published in 2001.
London - E13
Enquiry from: Victorino P
Start Date: Immediate
Room partitioing and wood flooring repairs
London - SE14
Enquiry from: Sara H
Start Date: Immediate
Hello, We are looking at adding a meeting room onto our mezzanine (please email me so I can share images and dimensions). For this, we are looking at low cost partition walls. We will need 3 x walls (
London - N8
Enquiry from: Jurell F
Start Date: Immediate
Non-load bearing wall required to make 1 room, 2 rooms. Room is approximately 5m x 5m, 4m floor to ceiling
London - SW8
Enquiry from: Saba K
Start Date: Immediate
I'm looking to install a non-permanent or semi-permanent partition wall in my one-bedroom flat in London to create a second bedroom space. Here are the details: 2 metres x 4 metres Ceiling I’d like
Height: standard (~2.4m)
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How To Plasterboard A Brick Wall
Do you want to cover your brick wall with plasterboard? The key to success here is the preparation. You must ensure that brick wall is prepared well enough to receive the plasterboard. To get started, there’s the need to attach wood furring strips to the wall which serves as studs in a wood frame structure. This way, the plasterboard will be prevented from getting in touch with the brick. You can always hang pictures or any other forms of decoration in between the gap between the walls. Let’s have a look!
lAttach Furring Strips
• Get a 2 inch by 4 inch wood stud and apply a bead of construction adhesive.
• Using a masonry bit, drill a pilot hole through the wood stud’s base as well as the brick wall.
• Hit a 3 inch fluted nail through the hole using a sledgehammer
• Using a construction adhesive, bind a horizontal 2 inch by 3 inch stud to the upper edge of the wall.
• Using an adhesive, bind the length of a 2 inch by 3 inch stud on its wide side.
• Use a masonry drill to drill a hole on the wood stud and 1 1/2 inches into the brick wall.
• Hit a 3 inch fluted nail through the pilot hole.
lApply Plasterboard
• Hold a plasterboard sheet against the furring strips.
• Use plasterboard screw to hold the drywall sheets in place.
• Use fibreglass to cover the joints where the two plasterboard sheets meet.
• Use a thin layer of the joint compound on the tape. Once done, screw it using a 6 inch taping knife, then allow to dry overnight.
• Use a sandpaper to smooth the joint compound.
• Use a fresh coat of the joint compound to block the holes and joints. Once done, allow the compound to dry.
• Use a light sandpaper to smooth the final coat.
Plasterboarding a brick wall is a simple task but the preparation part must be done right to protect your investment. Therefore, we’d recommend you hire the services of a skilful professional, who can guarantee the best results especially if you lack enough training and experience to carry out a DIY project.
Cutting a plasterboard is a relatively simple process requiring only some basic tools. Unfortunately, the lack of knowledge serves as big deterrent for many people who wishes to put it to good use. Plasterboard can actually be sawn using an ordinary timber saw that’s fine-toothed to get a cleaner edge. However, the basic tools you may also need includes a sharp knife (Stanley Knife), pencil, a fine sandpaper, a straight edge and measurement tape as well as a wall board saw. Let’s have a look at the cutting process!
• Firstly, you need to put the plasterboard sheet flat on a firm surface.
• Use the tape measurement to measure the cut you wish to make.
• With the help of a pencil, simply mark out the part you wish to cut on the plasterboard’s front side.
• Once marked, place a spirited level over the marked spot on the plasterboard sheet you want to cut.
• Cut a shallow mark into the plasterboard sheet using the Stanley Knife to cut along the edge.
• The cut should be slow and gradual to ensure you do not wander off the edge of the marked area.
• Once the shallow cut has been made, turn the plasterboard sheet on its edge and deliver a quick and sharp push towards the plasterboard’s back and on one side of the cut.
• Place the plasterboard sheet backing against a flat surface ensuring the line of the cut is over an edge. Once done, give a quick and sharp push towards the back of the plasterboard sheet and on the part of the board is reaches beyond the edge.
• Using a fine sandpaper, remove all forms of paper burrs.
The process of cutting plasterboard requires a lot of practice. If you lack the training and experience, the cutting process is best left to a proficient professional who can guarantee the best results the first time and save you some additional costs due to potential damages.
What Is Plasterboard?
The plasterboard is unarguably one of the most common building materials across the globe. Sometimes referred to as gypsum board, gyprock, drywall or wall board, the plasterboard is mostly incorporated for ceiling cladding and interior walls in several homes and offices in recent times. However, despite its global acceptability, it’s a very misunderstood building material.
The plasterboard is manufactured using a gypsum core with a heavy paper covering both sides of the sheet. The measurement of a standard plasterboard sheet is a length of 2.4 metres in and a width of 1.2 metres, with a thickness of about 13mm. The board usually have either a bevelled or a bit flat edge. The bevelled edge makes it easy for the installers to use a plaster to smooth out the surface after nailing the sheets to walls and ceilings as well as taping the edges.
The plasterboard comes in different types. Although various manufacturers provide a unique name for their products, but they’re all included in one of the following categories:
• Water Resistant Plasterboard - This type of plasterboard are best suited to be used in water areas like bathroom, laundry rooms and kitchens.
• Acoustic Plasterboard - Due to its sounding proofing qualities, this type of plasterboard is preferred to be used in home theatres or noisy areas.
• Flexible Plasterboard - This is to be incorporated on curvy surfaces.
• Fire Resistant Plasterboard - Just like the name implies, this type of plasterboard is best suited for use in high fire hazard areas.
If you’re about to kick start some small renovations around your house or office, using a plasterboard to clad your walls is a very simple and worthwhile task. However, if you want to do major renovations or need to apply plasterboard to your ceiling, the best option would be to leave it to a seasoned professional.
How To Plasterboard A Wall
If you’re looking to plasterboard your wall, one of the essential things to have in mind is that the plasterboard must be hung horizontally and not vertically. Due to the way they’re manufactured, plasterboard sheets normally possess a “grain along the length. This implies that, it’s only when they’re firmly placed perpendicular against the wall that they’re able to achieve their maximum strength. Materials you’ll need to complete this task includes: Tape measure, stanley knife, pencil, spirit level, drill driver or screw gun, surform, drywall screws and handsaw. Now let’s have a look at the wall plasterboarding steps!
• To plasterboard a wall the first step to take is to place each board in such a way to make the edges the centre of the noggins and upright. Also, the the adjoining walls and door openings should fit closely to the edges.
• Work from the door opening to the ending wall. From the the stud’s edge to the noggin’s centre, use your tape measure to measure a cut board and as a rule to mark up.
• Place your spirit level on the marks and use the Stanley knife to run a line along the intended cut. Once done, turn the board on its edge and give a sharp push on the back to split.
• Cut the paper left with the knife after folding the split edge back on itself. This way, you should get a nice and clean edge.
• In its right position, place the board up against the studwork. Install the screws on the board’s edges where a noggin or upright can be seen.
• Mark lines down across the board at the stud’s centre.
• Cut the end boards to length.
• Install the remaining boards as mentioned above. While doing this, make sure the factory edges are together.
• Cut any board extending into an opening and finish the edges using a surform.
We’d recommend you hire the professional services of a plasterer for the best results especially if you lack the necessary training or experience. Plasterboarding a wall can be a tricky challenge and you’d save yourself some time, money and effort by getting it right on the first trial.
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